Replies

1. 
   bobl_ | Feb 21, 2002 10:58pm | #1

   *
   Still have the "hole"?

   cut to size, put a backer in to hold in place and fill the crack with "spackle"

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke_ | Feb 21, 2002 11:37pm | #2

   *Roger -(1) Glue a piece of 1-1/2" wide lattice x about 4" long to the backside of the rocklath (apply glue to ends, work into hole, clamp by pulling tight with another piece of scrap/lattice on the outside and a drywall screw).(2) Screw/glue in a piece of 5/8" gypsum board.(3) Fill with Sheetrock brand patching plaster to just below the surface of the plaster.(4) Skim coat with drywall compound.Next time - use a stud finder! Or a coat hanger.Jeff

1. 
   Jim_Hartman | Feb 21, 2002 11:47pm | #3

   *Some may not like the approach, but if it's a small enough hole (1" dia or less), double up some fiberglass drywall tape (so drywall compound doesn't ooze through as easy) and stuff in the hole. Basically take the tape, wrap is around your finger, and stuff it in the hole. Mix durabond (setting type compound) so that it's pretty stiff, and push some into the hole. I usually use my finger. Don't fill it in one application, just get a thin application of 1/16" to 1/8". If the tape you pushed in the hole is hanging out any on the surface of the wall, wait until the first application of compound sets up, then trim the tape with a sharp utility knife. About an hour later (depending on the setting time of the compound), mix up more compound and apply. Depending on your wall thickness, you may want to add another small piece of tape to help hold the compound together. I've done this many times for smaller holes that were created for rewire work. About three applications of the compound the hole is filled.Big holes... put a piece of wood as a backer, use either the original piece cut out or a new piece of drywall for the patch piece, and fill the repair area with compound. Taping will help create a stronger patch. PS: if it's a thicker plaster wall, I usually wet the plaster first at the repair so that the setting compound will hydrate (set) properly. Otherwise the plaster will suck the water out of the compound, and the repair won't be as strong.

1. 
   Rich_ | Feb 22, 2002 03:16am | #4

   *When that happens we just stuff wet newspaper coated with a bit of the patching material. A few hours later apply finish coat.Or you could stuff a short piece of wood lath (short enough to get into the hole, long enough to bridge the hole diameter) in the hole with a string poked through the lath and the string temporarily stapled to the finish side of the wall. Stuff your patching material on top of that, let dry, apply finish coat. Keep it moist for a strong good looking fix.

1. 
   p_m | Feb 23, 2002 11:15am | #5

   *Mr. Martini, How's Rossi? I don't understand how or why you would use a 2" hole saw to cut a hole for an electrical outlet. Usually such holes are rectangular. Also, plaster chews up hole saws pretty quickly. Two holes and you have flat spots instead of sharp tips. At about $9 apiece for a hole saw, this isn't gpood. Use a drywall saw. If you would have used a "cut-in box", you don't have to be near a stud. -Peter

2. 
   Jeff_Clarke_ | Feb 23, 2002 07:17pm | #6

   *i plaster chews up hole saws pretty quickly ...Peter - Not if you use an industrial-grade carbide type ($20). But I agree on the method - Rotazip would be the way to go, along with an "old work" box.Jeff

3. 
   Roger_Martini | Feb 25, 2002 06:37pm | #7

   *Thanks for all the tips, guys.Rossi is very well, thanks.

2. 
   Roger_Martini | Feb 25, 2002 06:37pm | #8

   *
   Installed a new outlet and my first guess regarding the stud location was a bit off. Result is I have half of the hole created with my 2" hole saw protruding beyond the outlet cover. wall is 1/2" plaster over 1/2" rock lath. Advice on patching?

   cheers,

   Roger