My plumber ran a pipe up the wall of our bathroom to allow him to change our tub from a bath-only to a shower/bath combo. He cut away the drywall on both sides of the new pipe all the way to the studs on either side of the work area. My job now is to patch a 14″X61″ hole in the drywall. To support such a large patch, and because there was a pipe running the length of the hole, I screwed 2X4s to the studs on both sides. Then, I screwed pieces of green board over the hole. My problem is that the edges of the patch do not exactly meet the edges of the original drywall. There are places that my patch is ‘deeper’ than the original drywall as though I pushed it in too hard, and there are places that the patch is in front of the original drywall as thought I didn’t push it in hard enough. It’s up to 1/8 inch off in places. I’ve come up with 3 possible solutions but would appreciate any help I could get before proceeding to the next step. (The next step being that I planned on covering the joints with self-adhesive fiberglass tape and joint compound.)
1) Cover the joint with a very thick layer of joint compound. That seems like it is sure to show.
2) Remove the drywall patch and 2X4s and try to line up the 2X4s better. Yes, I’m perfectly willing to re-do something to make it better.
3) Remove the drywall and place shims underneath where the indentations are. This, of course does not help the areas that are too high. And believe me, I pounded on the 2X4s in the high areas to try to get them to go in more.
Thank you all for any help you can offer.
David
Replies
David
even out the height differences between the old and new drywall as best you can. but the key is to absolutely always use drywall tape along a butt joint to try to avoid cracking. then, get a couple of larger taping knives, 10", 14", and feather, sand mud; feather, sand, mud; ............ until your happy.
#2
Purchase 45 or 90 minute setting compound. Mix with drill and sheetrock mixer doohickey (technical term for beater like thing that attaches to your drill) Use it for the taping step. After the taping step DO NOT SAND...just scrape high spots off with sheetrock knife. Apply second coat with setting compound...use 10" sheetrock knife Next DO NOT SAND...SCRAPE. Last coat (or second to last depending on how things are going) use 12" knife and use regular sheetrock mud that you buy at Lowes or other suppliers (never Home Depot because you will be tempted to ask them advice and they havent a clue) Might as well buy 5 gals because you might need more ..depending on how everything goes. Now you can sand to your lil hearts content .. being careful not to sand thru to the sheetrock tape. If you arent satisfied with the results .. go ahead put another coat on..we wont tell.
By the way... 1/8" in sheetrock repair is not much at all.
Aren't you done yet?<G>
My fix would be to remove the patch, remove the 2x4's you have scabbed to the studs and with a straight edge and a sharp utility knife cut away the ragged edge of the plumbers work. Cut the rock right down the middle of each stud. Then cut a new piece of filler - 16" wide - from the leftover board (you should have 2/3'ds of a sheet left over from the first cut) and screw that to the edge of the studs you just exposed.
Two clean edges should make a pretty good flush joint. You could buy a $8 bag of setting compound plus a one pound pail of regular mud but as a homeowner you will be spending $8 too much and by the time you need to do your next patch the pail of mud may be obsolete. Use paper tape. Spread a thin layer of mud on the joint and embed the tape. Use enough pressure to squeeze most of the mud out from under the tape and let it dry. Should be no lumps or ridges if you wipe well. Don't keep going over and over because you will wrinkle the tape. Continue with a larger knife, a least 2 more applications, so that the tape is completely covered and the mud is feathered. You can now sand. Add more mud if you aren't satisfied. Sand again.
Come back and let us know how it all turned out.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Removing the 2X4s I scabbed on (colorful term) and using the studs already there will obviously work better than what I did. You mentioned using tape instead of fiberglass mesh. Should I just throw away the mesh and get some tape and chalk up the small loss as an educational experience?
Thanks again. I really appreciate those with knowledge sharing it with novices such as myself.'
David
Keep the fiberglass tape...the yellow showing through will clue you in to areas of compound that are too thin.
One caution...if using fiberglass, your first coat must be of the setting type (20 min, 45min, 90min not Fix-All) length of time you use depends on how confident you feel, or the joint will crack.
If you use Hamilton brand compounds, it won't stick to other types;
I learned the hard way...A year ago, I ran out of Sheetrock Easy Sand when finishing my daughters closet, and grabbed a bag of the H kind...all those areas' edges have started to peel. (says so right on the bag, that's why I should learn to read the #@*%#+ manual!)
Jen 8}
Whatever works!
Just to let you know how it all came out:
Thanks to your suggestion, it all came out nicely. I cut additional drywall and used the existing 2X4s and it worked much better. It was still a little off, but not as much. With a lot of layers of joint compound, some sanding, and something my wife found called "Orange Peel in a Can", the patch is practically invisible.
Thanks again.
David
The high spots may be cause by your new 2x4's being warped. Cutting the rock back to the center of the stud is a good option, if you can cut it straight enough. If you still want to scab on new wood, try 2x3 or 2x2, which will allow some wiggle room at the back side. You can use sheetrock screws to hang the rock, but get some deck screws to attach the new wood...if you use sheetrock screws instead, don't admit to it on this forum :)