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Has anyone out there ever had to or seen a peeled log veneer added to the exterior of a house? I just had a potential client give me a large remodel list for bid and he wanted to simulate a log cabin (mind you the house is 6400 sq.ft. so ‘cabin’ might be a misnomer). I am in the Seattle area so getting the logs should not pose a tree-mendous (sorry) problem. How would I attatch them (lags?) The building framing is sound. Would I need an additional footing to support the weight? This is not stone, but there is more weight than shingles or siding to be sure. Would I be wise to add battens to allow air flow behind the logs? etc. etc. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. I will probably be consulting an engineer on some of the other items on the remodel project if it is accepted but I do not want to go into this blind.
TIA
Flatch
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When you say veneer, could you be a little more specific? When I think veneer, I think of the long, thin sheets they make plywood out of. Could you be talking about 1/2 log siding? That is, logs that are cut to simulate log siding? If you are, yes, I can help you out and know several suppliers. Please post back.
*The Glu-lam-log web site lists "log cabin siding" at:http://www.glulamlog.com/Products.htmlI think there was a thread discussing log siding a few months ago. Perhaps a search will give you more information.
*flatch... this was a siding that had a run of popularity in the late forties and early fifties...the ((novelty log siding )) is basically a 2x6 pine siding that has been milled tohave a round profile and a shiplap top and bottom...it is not a heavy siding and will not require any additional structure...the problems are the corners.. and the flashing details..... i would do a few mock-ups and get approvals for your details from the owner before getting in to deep..back prime and end prime and lap prime everything...don't even think about clear finishes , this stuff loves to suck in water and rot... so seal it .. and get your flashing details down..or try and talk them into some other siding.... like red cedar shingles... or my favorite ((( great looks... low maintenance))) fiber cement clapboards..
*Thanks for the info Casey, I will look into that site. By veneer I do mean 1/2 logs in the context of veneer being non-structural like a stone veneer Jason. Boy sure would be nice if it did come in sheets..... No such luck. Mike, the customer is fairly adamant about the logs. Shingles, etc a big negatory. I will continue my search and forge ever onward. Maybe I should invest in a large blue ox named 'Babe'...Flatch
*Hello Flatch,I did a project similar to what you are describing about 2 yrs ago. The log siding we used came from a distributor in Ozark MO. It was pine and was milled with a tongue and groove and we installed it by blind nailing it with 16d galvanized nails shot with a framing nailer.Some of the siding was installed over OSB with no problem. Some was installed over insulation board due to the builder wanting to cut cost. Big problem there was insulation board would crush where scarf joints were madeand the wall would look wavy even though the scarf joints were placed on studs. Where ever we made a scarf joint, we cut the log siding at 22.5 degrees as instructed by the manufacturer. I've enclosed a picture showing some of the work in progress.
*flatch & mad dog... the siding shown in the pic is the same that was used around here..i've also seen the corners done (((log style)) with alternating courses lapping......i'm pretty sure the matls here were shiplapped though...i think the ship lap allowed more movement...definitely seal everything before you apply it
*Hi Mike,There is a shiplapped version of the log siding available; however, the homeowner and builder opted against it due to the fact that the manufacturer recommended face nailing the ship lapped product.The tongue and groove version went together well, But one word of caution. Don't order the product and leave it set around the job for more than a couple weeks as the product we used which was supposedly kiln dried, started to twist and bow making the install a little more difficult.
*BTW... this month's Good Housekeeping has a picture essay of a remodel of a raised ranch into a mountain log home... actually pretty good looking job.. using the same log siding you're talking about flatch
*Mike, Trust me. Here in the Pacific NW my guys seal everything possible exterior wise. Will definately do so on this project. Have even been known to back prime interior trim work that is w/in the room closest to an exterior door. (Hey if you got the money honey, I got the time...). I meet with the client Sunday evening to start get a lot more details. On the plus side I was able to talk him out of moss chinking or similar looking details. I will continue to post as things progress and try and start a new discussion how things go towards the end of the project. Flatch 'Bunyan' Masterson
*flatch.. i trust you...just love preaching to the choir..hey i was wrong about the photo essay.. it's actually in Better homes And Gardens , aug 2000, page 144..nice looking job .. what i can see.....i don't like siding in contact with roof shingles though .... like he shows on his dormers..
*Flatch, the stuff Mad Dog pictured is exactly what I was thinking of. You can go to http://www.harmonyexchange.com and get a bid for it (they supply log, timber, and SIP components all over the country). It's used extensively on cabins in the Upper Penninsula of Michigan. There's a product they make up here called "perma-log" which is a prefinished version. I agree with the other posters: make sure it gets up fast, is finished with paint or a non-clear stain, securely fastened, etc. I can try to get you a quote for perma-log if you want, but basically, it's a thicker, usually pine wood siding.
*Thanks for the site ref. Jason. I will look them up. Halleujia and Hosana brother Mike, I hear ya preachin', let the word be heard far and near, prime it all and have no fear.... Well, other fears to be sure, but not about siding....Amen BrethrenFlatch