I’m a newb to finishing carpentry and cabinetry.
Looking for advice on how to best cut shelves into our closet and built-ins. I’m starting with our closets which are Melamine on MDF rails and then onto the bathroom and kitchen which are shelves bound by 3 walls out of red oak ply.
I’ve got all my closet rails cut and shelves marked but the walls aren’t square and my attempts to measure accurately on paper don’t agree with the physical dimensions.
Done some reading online and I can’t get my head around scribing when I have 3 walls.
Along with a good system to produce tight fitting shelves I’d like to use the right tools. Should I invest is a laser like Bosch Tools produces to get my measurements? Or a sliding ruler?
Any advice is appreciated and please let me know if you need clarification.
Replies
Cut ya some 2" wide strips of posterboard or cardboard, or thin plywood, make a template, one along the longest wall, then tack with quick glue ( hot gun works well) the short sides.
May have to carve a little here and there, esp. in corners where mud may be built up.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Van,
here's what I've done sometimes.
Hold a framing square to the back wall of the closet one leg parallel to the wall one leg perpendicular to the wall,some where in the center.
Say you have a 12" shelf measure to the right corner from the sq at the back wall then measure to the right wall 12" out where the shelf will end.
Do the same to the left.
take the sq to your shelf material put the sq one leg parallel to what will be the back edge and lay it on the shelf, mark the measurements left and right and 12" out from the sq.
I usually cut a little less to give some room to get in, this should get you close.
Vince Carbone
Riverside Builders
Franklin,NY
If your closets are out of square enough that a simple tape measure is not up to the job, then I would consider making a template. It's the way countertops have been done for a long time so there's nothing wrong with the extra steps if you really need a precise fit.
You can use stiff cardboard, luan, 1X2 furring strips or any other such material. Cut 4 pieces to the approximate correct length (front, back and 2 sides), place them where the shelf will go and secure them to each other with clamps. Trace the template on the material that will be cut for the shelves. Be sure to cut just a little small to make sure the shelf will fit.
I think a tape measure is about the most sophisticated tool you need for this job if you know how to use one.
If you are doing much of that kind of work, you might want to make one of these.
Do you know what a carpenter’s “shooting board” is? Sort of a homemade version of a Festool circular-saw guide rail.
I use short (approx.15") lengths of one, and cut the ends at a slight angle to make sure it will fit into out-of-square corners. Extend it between the walls to transfer the odd angles, then clamp it to your shelf stock, and run your saw over it. With a standard sidewinder, the right-hand cut, as you face it, will be made front-to-back. The left-hand cut, though, is back-to-front, so wrap the front left edge of the shelf with masking tape to avoid tearout.
I use use different lengths of sticks for different jobs. This pic shows it set up for short shelves or stair treads.
To save yourself some grief, after you have pressed the jig out against the walls to get your length and angles, it’s not a bad idea to mark where the sticks overlap each other. Then make another mark a scant 1/8” away from the first, and slide the sticks to that line.
Your shelf will now end up short enough to actually fit without tearing up the walls, but, if you split the difference, each end will still be within 1/16” of the wall.
Another trick is to temporarily tape a coffee-stirrer or a tongue depressor into the inside corners of the end walls, and set your jig to that for a fit that’s looser in the inside corners than at the outside edge.
Theses tolerances will vary, of course, depending whether it’s a painted shelf going in a closet, or pre-finished kitchen parts that have to fit just so.
AitchKay
Thanks for the replies. I'll try and put some of this to practice this morning.AitchKay, that is exactly what I was referring to when I said a 'sliding bob.' Not sure where I picked up the name but it basically allows you to profile the walls.Off to measure and I'm sure more questions to follow.Van G
Hey, no fair!Those guys over at that other thread get to have a Wuko Uni-Bender, and I'm stuck with a Sliding Bob!Some guys get all the luck.AitchKay
My version of the "sliding bob" is quite simple, as accurate as you need it and you won't need a tape, square or any other tool than the saw and a couple chunks of the stock you are trying to scribe/fit.
If I was working in a 6' closet, I might take two shelves about 4' long and slide them out till they bumped the walls. If the angle needed "adjustment" at the wall, I'd either note how much, or test scribe the board(s). After I've test scribed the boards to fit exactly, I'd slide them to the walls one more time. I'd then mark a pencil line that gives me an alignment point on the edges of the board(s).
Take this pattern to the stock and your shelves will fit perfect every time.
A couple chunks of 1/8" x 12" plywood make great pattern tools. They are light, fast and lay well on the final piece.
I've also used this method to measure great distances alone when framing. If I'm in a 26' wide room and need to meausre something overhead for length, I'll grab two pieces of 1x2x16' and slide them till I bump my targets. I mark the sticks and then lay them down so I can measure with my tape. It's a lot faster than calling a helper to hold the tape.
I use some version of the above scribing/measuring methods a lot. It is a very handy technique.
Jim,
good method,in fact I think all the posts have easy to do ways to make it happen.
I hope Van comes back and lets us know what he did. Vince Carbone
Riverside Builders
Franklin,NY
I wonder about he level of accuracty the OP is wanting. Kudos to him for aiming for perfection but when I'm trimming a house I woudn't put that much effort/time in to a place that will never be seen once the closet gets stocked.
But, if a high level accuracy were my goal I'd use my stair tread tool that's not as fancy as the one previoulsy posted.
BTW Good method you go there.
Edited 3/22/2009 10:57 am ET by john7g
that's clever - I like it.
I have the smae problem...so now if you have got the solution then please tell me
adp
There's several solutions to the problem-most of those above work well.
Try one.