Replies

1. 
   Danno | May 06, 2006 04:08pm | #1

   I'll reply as sort of a "bump"--I know you're not supposed to use lag screws (supposed to use through bolts), but with what appears to be a 4x4 sill, I was wondering why you couldn't screw the ledger to that. Have to flash everything to keep water out, of course. Another thought that people have mentioned alot is to forget the ledger and put another row of columns close to the house and cantilever the deck toward the house. Then there are no worries about water getting into the house.

2. 
   Jer | May 06, 2006 04:16pm | #2

   Through bolts if you can. If not, long lags two of them set within a couple of inches of each edge of the ledger board every 16". May be overkill but there are nightmare stories of deck ledger boards not being properly installed, then the giant cocktail party one night and....well, you know the rest.
   Other than that, it looks fairly run of the mill stuff there. Fill in where you need to and make sure that the ledger is properly flashed. Some builders like to not use a ledger board but rather dig separate footings right next to the fondation and butt the new deck up to the house making the deck separate from the house so there's less chance of water leaks. Seems like a lot more work, but it's not a bad idea.

1. 
   TheDudeAbides | May 06, 2006 10:42pm | #3

   I was thinking of through bolting the bottom (through the 4x6) and then lagging through the 2x4's with 1/2" x 4 lag screws... Can you mix bolts and lag screws?

1. 
   Jer | May 06, 2006 11:42pm | #4

   Where you can't put through bolts, I would lag 'em. Sounds like a plan.

3. 
   dieselpig | May 07, 2006 03:22am | #5

   I'll nix the lag screws and recommend FastenMaster brand Ledger Lok screws... the 5 3/8" ones.  No predrilling, they zip right in with a nut driver, and have greater shear values than 1/2" lag screws.  ACQ compatible too.  But through bolt anywhere you can.

   I'd finish resheathing (I think that's what you're up to there) and then I'd run a course of I&W shield over the whole thing.  I also like to space my ledgers off the house some to allow the assembly to breath and dry out.  Don't forget your flashing and counterflashing too..... that's as important as anything else you'll do.

   Have fun.... decks are a blast.

   Oh yeah.... someone will be along shortly (I can almost guarantee it) to tell you to just build the deck free standing with it's own second row of footings up near the house.  Just my opinion, but I don't think it's necessary in your situation.  I think it's a great solution for a deck abutting a stone foundation or something, but probably not necessary for your situation. 

   Again.... just my two cents.

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1. 
   nikkiwood | May 07, 2006 03:34am | #6

   Brian (DP) told me about those LedgerLok screws for a project we were doing about six months ago.I checked with my local fastener place, and they didn't have that brand. But they had something comparable, and they had even gone to the trouble of having the local building department certify they were code compliant for attaching ledger boards.As Brian says, they are stronger than 1/2" lags, and went in really slick with an impact driver.********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

2. 
   TheDudeAbides | May 07, 2006 05:35am | #7

   I think you sold me on those LedgerLok screws.  I'm in MA, and am pulling a permit.  Will my inspector gripe about the screws? Thanks for the help, but I have a some questions....

   Ok, I'm thinking I&W shield is ice and water?  And should I do the whole thing, or just where the ledger will be.   Right now I have felt up there, but should I do the whole thing?

   How do you space your ledger off the house?  I was going to do it with 1/2" pt plywood or washers...  it seems like you would weaken the bolt by just using washers.

   And, last one....I have flashing to go over my ledger, but what's couterflashing...? 

1. 
   dieselpig | May 07, 2006 05:53am | #8

   I'm in MA too, and have been using the LedgerLoks for all kinds of things where a lag would normally be used (I'm a framer).  So far I haven't had any problems, but I always leave behind an empty box of the screws with the GC if they are concerned.  The box has all the engineering specs on it.  So far so good, and I sleep well at night.

   Yes, I&W shield is just 'ice and water' or roofing membrane or a bunch of other names.  I just run a course (about a 1/2 course actually, 18" or so) of I&W directly on top of the wall sheathing as an extra barrier.  I also run a course of copper roll flashing over that, and then my ledger on top of that.  I like having the I&W back there as it's 'self healing' and will do a nice job of protecting the framing and sheathing than the roll flashing alone... particularly around any nail, screw, or bolt penetrations.

   By counterflashing, I simply mean the "L" shaped flashing that goes on top of the ledger and tucks up under the siding and housewrap. 

   Personally, I think that using felt or I&W on top of all the joists is probably overkill.  I've taken apart many decks of varying age and find that the PT holds up very very well, even around screw and nail holes where the deck boards were fastened.  I've seen rotten deck boards, rails posts, stringers, skirt boards, railings, ledgers.... but I can honestly say that I've yet to see a rotten PT deck joist.  That being said, it certainly won't hurt anything to go ahead and do it. 

   I prefer to space my ledger from the house with a piece of composite material like 5/4 synthetic decking or something.  I just use about a 2" x ledger depth piece directly behind the areas to be bolted.  I don't like washers for exactly the reason you mentioned, even though I'm not really sure of the engineering behind that.  Admittedly, it's just a gut feeling.

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