Replies

1. 
   CloudHidden | Apr 30, 2004 04:08pm | #1

   A method I saw once is to hang the tubes, rather than support them from below. This ensures they match on top. I just can't recall the exact method...maybe someone else does.

2. 
   johnnyd | Apr 30, 2004 04:21pm | #2

   If you have access to/know how to use a transit or one of those new laser deals, that would be the way to go...or the good old level on a long stick, line level, water level ways work too, depending on how big this structure is. Reference point being the level of the finished floor of the original structure.

   Either way, I would install the piers long, (you are using PT wood 4X4s vertically up from the footings, right?) and then cut them off at the established level.  I put a nail in each corner at the established level, stretch a mason's string accross, mark the intermediate piers, and then cut on the marks.

   
   

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   Edited 4/30/2004 9:24 am ET by johnnyd

1. 
   PaulBinCT | Apr 30, 2004 04:38pm | #3

   Yes, that's exactly what I was thinking of doing Johnny... thanks!

1. 
   johnnyd | Apr 30, 2004 05:39pm | #5

   Ditto on the 6X6...alot more meat for a little more $s.

1. 
   PaulBinCT | Apr 30, 2004 05:51pm | #6

   I had considered it... now I guess I'll make it official ;) Thank you!

3. 
   MojoMan | Apr 30, 2004 04:51pm | #4

   I usually pour the footings, and then use a water level and story pole to determine the length of each tube.

   Have you considered 6x6 PT for the posts?

   A Mollitor, Sharon MA

4. 
   IanDG | Apr 30, 2004 07:03pm | #7

   An easy way to mark the height of the concrete pour inside column formwork is to simply drive a nail through the formwork from the outside, on each face, at the finished level. Then you fill the form to the level of the nails.

   Another, more accurate way is to leave the concrete about 1" low and bed a granite tile or steel shim in 4:1 sand:cement mortar on top as a levelling pad. This, of course, can only be done if you have no rebar coming out of the top of the column.

   If you're fixing the beams to the top of the columns you can use short pieces of steel angle or channel fixed down to the top of the finished concrete and shimmed to the correct level.

   If you are pouring concrete beams as well then leave the columns about 2" long and trim them off to the correct level when the beam soffitte formwork is in place. This exposes the aggregate as a good key for the beam concrete.

   IanDG

1. 
   PaulBinCT | Apr 30, 2004 07:38pm | #8

   Thanks Ian...

   Am I missing a subtlety here or wouldn't it be easier to pour the footings to approximately equal levels and then cut the piers to precisely level points?  I've gone back and forth over this in my head, since it's my first paying gig I want to do it right.

   Thanks for all the advice!

   Paul

1. 
   IanDG | May 01, 2004 12:01am | #9

   Certainly you can but it's easier to pour the columns to a pre-determined height than the footings.

   IanDG

1. 
   PaulBinCT | May 01, 2004 12:19am | #10

   Ahhhhh I think I see where we diverged...I'm planning on using 6x6 PT as the piers, Ian, not cast columns... but if I'm still missing your pont my apologies.

   Paul

1. 
   millsie | May 01, 2004 05:30am | #11

   hey there.....sonotubes are great.  If you have access to them, i highly recommend using the big foot bases for them.  A little more concrete, but you basically can forget about any frost heaving problems.  I live in Easton, MA, where i finally just completed a family room on my own house.  Because i was so close to my septic, i had to put the damn things on footings, but the big foot bases worked awesome.

5. 
   Piffin | May 01, 2004 05:43am | #12

   Can you clarify something? I think you were talking about a deck and then said something about a room above?

   A deck is an open to the weather raised surface.

   If it has a roof over it, it becomes a porch.

   but room sounds like an enclosed space.

   All three different.

   The reason this becomes important is that I doubt typical 4x4s would handle the load of an entire addition as an enclosed room with the weight of a roof and furniture, etc. especially if only on sonotube piers at c. 8' OC. I would look for 6x6s and either larger footings or closer layout.

   to be sure of height for all of them, I set them with braces and mark with my lasar level

    

    

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1. 
   PaulBinCT | May 03, 2004 03:37pm | #13

   Sorry if I wasn't clear Piffin... 

   "I'm in the process of getting ready for my first "for hire" building project.  This is going to be basically a three seasons room replacing (and larger than) an existing elevated deck, about 8 feet above grade."

   Based on the advice here, I'm planning on 6x6s for the posts, the current "issue du jour" is whether the piers will require footings, seems from my research they will.

   As always thanks to all for their input!

   Paul

1. 
   MojoMan | May 03, 2004 06:08pm | #14

   I certainly think concrete footings below the frost line are in order. I would also use tube forms to bring the concrete above grade, although others on this forum (Mike Smith) often put the wood in the soil.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

1. 
   PaulBinCT | May 03, 2004 06:30pm | #15

   Ditto on both of those, see I'ma lernin ;)

   Paul