Folks were very helpful last week in my quest to cut a mitre joint in the corner of a butcher block countertop. It took many cuts, but I finally got very close. There is a gap of about a 1/16th of an inch that I really don’t want to fill with putty or sawdust.
Would it help at this point to use my power planer on the raw cuts of the two pieces of butcher block so that they are both perfectly flat and the wood comes together as closely as possible? Any advice appreciated.
Replies
I remember that topic. Glad to hear it's working out, or mostly so.
Clamp extra stock along the edge for the plane to ride on. Something like so...
View Image
The board is clamped to one side, aligned with the other side. It is also plenty long because the planer will "drop-off" and leave a dip when it reaches the end, so make sure the end does not land before the end of the counter material.
Also, it's best to clamp matching pieces to the bottom and top, to keep the planer flat during the processs.
~ Ted W ~
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See my work - TedsCarpentry.com
Edited 4/10/2009 11:54 am by Ted W.
Ted: Thanks for such a helpful reply. I do have a question: I just got my planer and haven't used it yet so I don't quite understand the extra piece of stock -- does the planer ride against it or on top? Thanks.
The planer rides on top of the fence board. Clamp the fence to the face of the countertop. What you are doing is providing a wide straight edge for the planer to ride on. be careful to ensure the non-cutting edge of the planer rides on the fence, or else you will be planing the fence down too."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Actually, you cut the guide also.
Think of it this way - the cut has to go from 0 depth to 1/16" depth DURING the pass. There is no planer I know of that will do that. But if you clamp the "guides" in position and plane the guides 1/16" from end to end, the edge of the counter ends up getting planed 0 - 1/16" because of the slight angle of the guides.
I hope this makes sense. Otherwise I'm going to have to make a video and I don't have a counter to miter at this time. =)
The router and guide technique described by the other poster (sorry, can't see the screen name while I'm typing this) also works well. I've also done it using my circular saw, just set the pieces in place and, using a straight edge, run the curf right through the gap.
I made my suggestion based on OP asking about using a planer.~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com
Ya know, you're right. My planer has one side of the sole where the blade does not cut, but that makes for a pretty narrow fence to ride along. Cutting the guide is probably easier.
The router method is how i would do it, cuz it would be easier than trying to hold the planer against the edge, or to support the counter vertically. And too, you could use a metal straight edge like a level as a fence."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I didn't follow this from the first post so if I'm off base just tell me...I would use a guide as suggested with a router and a deep enough 1/2" down cut spiral bit to go completely through the top in one pass.If the bit has a 1/2" wide cut I would place the sections so the widest gap was 7/16 or so and the pieces are "square" to the cabinets. One slow pass between the two and they should fit tight.Once again there are many ways to make this "cut" and I might be off in left field, best of luck.Garett
1/16" on a miter I would not be messing with power tools to try and get it right. Power tools can easily lop off that much and three times as much without blinking or thinking.
Some use good rasps, I prefer my sharp block planes.
Today there is a gap of 1/16 inch. But as all miters do, it's fit will change with the moisture content of the wood.
With a 2' wide countertop, my bet is it will open a good eighth inch in the winter.
No good way to manage this as far as I know.
Rich
I have to go by the job I did in '03 or '04 soon so I will get you some pictures - still doing fine. Glue and drawbolts - sealed top and bottom.
All-
I'd be using the router on this too guys. Inexperienced with a planer on an endgrain cut with holding the tool 90° rotation is a prety sure recipe for disaster. I've actually used a planer once ot twice and would not attempt this trick myself
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Piffin, I'm wondering, if the joint stayed tight, are the ends away from the miter free to move? Stands to reason that the counter will move to less than 90 degrees if the MC of the wood drops, no? Let us know what you see.
J-shaped counter with two tight in mitresProbably will be a week or so before I can get the pictures.
Here is as built but no close ups.
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Man!
That second image looks almost real.
I think he finally got over the learning curve of the software. The first rendering looks like one of his early attempts."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
What Software?
That was done on V11 in '03
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Router would be my first choice too, but OP asked about a power planer.
It's not a recipe for disaster if, as I described, you use 2 rails - one on top surface, other on bottom, and make sure they're properly aligned. ~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com
I know I'll get my head bit off but use a Festool plunge cut saw, it will be perfect.
Before I had one of those I always used router with a 1/2" down cut spiral bit & fence, that too will give you a perfect fit.
I've got a planer too be think that is the wront app. for it,
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