Has anyone use square nails to install a plank floor, or is this a stupid idea? The width of plank I am wanting to use is 6″. I am worried about the nails working themselves loose and the floor sqeaking. I thought of using a construction adhesive to eliminate this but am worried about restricting the movement of the wood.
I need some help.
-Tim
Replies
I've just laid about 950sq ft of wide plank eastern white pine using rose head nails.
I used construction adhesive under it.
So far no problems at all.
Another 1600+ sq ft is arriving this week and I'll be installing it with red rosin paper and just the rose head nails.
Be floored
andy
The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 9/8/2004 9:59 pm ET by Andy Clifford(Andybuildz)
Andy
I got some 2-1/4" wide, 3/4" solid maple prefinished strip floor to put down. The instructions say to lay over roofing felt, but everybody around here (SW Pennsylvania) seems to use red rosin paper. What's the reasoning?
Thanks,
Bob
Roofing felt is a vapor barrier and red rosin really isn't. I always use 15 lb. felt under installed flooring unless otherwise specified.
Tim,
Who's nails are you planning to use? Do you know what Andy meant by a "rosehead"?
Curly
Restoring the past for the future.
The rosehead nails, I believe are a square "cut" nail. I am also using them. I got them from leevalley.com They are called rosehead because of the little pimple on the top of the head.
Tim
Tim,
If they don't have a sharp point on them you really are going to need to sharpen them to get them to stay in place. Unless of coarse you would like to have a few toe catchers here and there.
CurlyHand Hewn Restorations Inc.
Restoring the past for the future.
If they don't have a sharp point on them you really are going to need to sharpen them to get them to stay in place.
I've experienced that with standard cut nails. Why zat?PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
The point cuts the wood fibers and lets the wood get a good grip. Blunt ended nails crush thru the wood fibers and create a cavity around the nail that is much less apt to hold that little sucker when the wood invariably moves. Think about splitting firewood. Using an axe(point) splits it nicely, using a maul with a blunt end crushes the fibers then forces a split. Or like a dart; Sharp darts stick to the dart board, dull darts bounce off.
Curly the pointy oneHand Hewn Restorations Inc.
Restoring the past for the future.
tim- you don't say if you're face nailing on top of the planks or blind nailing on a tongue(conventional t&g flooring) blind nailing on a tongue, use conventional flooring gun w either nails or staples if you want to face nail w a decorative cut nail like a rose head, check out the site for "Tremont Nails" in wareham, MA they make several designs, cut on 100yr. old machines looks great; a warning about decorative face nails, think ahead to future refinishing, can't use sanding machinery w all that iron sticking out of the floor
specs for oak say glue for planks over 5" i've been gluing starting at 5" and wider w all species, floor is tighter supposed to help prevent cupping, but have seen lots of old plank not glued, still holding up don't be concerned about glue and movement, but leave expansion space around perimeter of room, the wider the material, the more it is subject to expansion/shrinkage let stock sit in room for a few days at least, week or two is better, and test flooring and subfloor w moisture meter think it helps to use stock w back cuts and t&g if stock is square edge or ship-lap, need good nails w heads, or screws w filler or buttons to properly secure floor if occasional face nail to secure it, use galvanized pneumatic finish nails
Tim,
If you use the Tremont nails then I would advise you to sharpen the blunt ends so they stay in place. I have used thousands of pounds of tremont nails and if you do not sharpen the ends to a point they will work their way out. It is a function of the wood moving with the moisture as much as walking on it. You must also pre-drill for face nailing. You will more than likely get a few "cherries" a.k.a. hammer marks when you face nail. You will also want to set the nails as flush as you can. Kinda smashing them into the wood fibers on the top of the board. Looks good if you are after the "old" floor look.
CurlyHand Hewn Restorations Inc.
Restoring the past for the future.
Nobody said welcome yet, so HOWDY as I see this is your first post.
I looked to see if you had your geographic location in the profile, but none.
Anyway, I've put down lots of plank flooring but only in barns,etc, nothing like Andy, et Al. fancy stuff, as the barns just get the green sinkers.
What I have to offer is that if you live in any earthquake zone, go with screws (and plugs if needed for appearance) . I put the 2nd floor exposed 2x6 t&G subfloor plus 5/8 PB over floor down in my own house with 16d and 8d serrated nails in 1972 with 15# felt between. Had not ever had a floor squeak until we had a 6.8 earthquake in 2001, but have developed about 5 specific sqeaks after that.
If had a chance to do over with todays hardware, would have screwed down everything.