Hi,
Does anyone have experience using textured paint after repairing drywall cracks in a textured ceiling? I’ve done some plaster repair to a textured ceiling that had some cracks – I used a glue system where I drilled holes into the plaster (called Wallys Plaster Magic). Once I filled in the holes with mud I then tried to hide the repair by using textured paint. It came out kind of thick and now the repair seems obvious…..the opposite of what I wanted!!! Any thoughts on the process? Joe, Boston MA
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The only way to stand a chance with a texture repair is to make the crack disappear on what would have been the flat original surface and then proceed with the exact method of texturing they did.
Not alwasy that easy.
Blending and over-texturing the area, light wash with a damp rag and a few other tricks sometimes help.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Thanks. When you say down to the original surface, you mean scrap the textured stuff off the ceiling, repair the crack and then resurface? Yes, tricky. Maybe with the system I'm using, I will use the joint compound to create the texture. Any thoughts?
If you were to show the texture you have it would be easier to explain how I would do it.
Sometimes scraping all of it is the way to go.
Othertimes you scrape off the high points (if any), patch the crack with paper or fibreglass tape, make smooth and retexture-expanding the area of texture while thinning your application.
Occasionally you can cut some of the crack deeper/wider/flared-no tape-and then fill, then texture.
You have a photo you can post? A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Re-reading your first post, you mention drywall ceiling.
Is there a popcorn texture?
a stipple?
a patterned plop done with either an oval or round brush and wet mud?
knockdown-flattened splattered looking stuff?
There is a spraycan of popcorn (I think), and there are varying thickness splatter for either alone or knockdown application.
For the brush patter-thinned mud is the stuff. And the proper application brush.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I'll try to post a picture within the next day or so. It appears that it was rolled no - no pattern and like popcorn. It sticks out (or down) from the ceiling about 1/16". I'll let you know what I can post....
There's a great article in this month's Handyman Magazine that discusses just this subject.
Mike D
Thank you - I will pick it up!
I bought a small surform rasp just for this--it's the little one with the 2" square rounded blade. Anyway I scrape down to the original paper with the rasp so the new paper tape is as flat as possible. Rather than fiberglass tape I'll use paper since it can be kept very flat. Then feather the edges very carefully within a few inches of the repair and use a texture to match the original. Normally very good hiding ability if done carefully. There are a number of chunky texture products from fine to course to popcorn premixed in a can that are applied with either a stiff paintbrush or sponge trowel and match everything from plaster to stucco to popcorn if it's just a uniform rough surface.
There are also texture products at HD and Lowes that are mixed into paint for plaster like textures, but unless a very thick primer like a (concrete block) block primer are used over the top they never look right since the texture sits on the surface rather than peaking out of the surface.
I only have to match a strange texture that I haven't worked with before about once a year in remodeling and when i do I'll just get a handful of the texture products and start experimenting. Sometimes it's a multi level process with one texture product providing a good background or base and others making up the larger features of the texture. If it's a small area of less than a few square feet (or larger if price is no object) I've been known to bring out a small brush and add additional texture drops by hand until it matches the surrounding areas exactly. Nothing is more rewarding than to have a tough to match area with harsh lighting disapear!
Good look and if you had a picture it would be easy for us to comment on :)
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Don touched on a really critical point: lighting. Worst thing is one of those cheap center of the ceiling fixtures with two bare bulbs above a piece of glass. Bright hard light skimming along the surface will reveal the slightest mismatch in texture. A nice chandelier might be a very cost effective improvement here.
-- J.S.