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I want to achieve a pseudo-plastered look on a new drywall installation in my shop. Basically, what I have in mind is hanging the drywall and taping it as usual, but, instead of sanding the joints, I’d like to smear joint compound all over the wall, then trowel it to a partially smooth finish (I’ve seen this done with exterior stucco finishes). My goal is to get the stucco trowelled look, and also to avoid the tedious (for me) effort to hide the taped joints. If this works well in my shop, I’ll try it on my upcoming home addition.
Is there a better alternative to regular joint compound for this? (I’m not ready to try actual plaster on “drywall” lath.) If joint compound is the way to go, what would be the most effective compound to use? Finally, are there any specific techniques I should use to achieve this sort of finish?
Thanks for any advise.
Joe
Replies
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Without taping, you're practically assured of having cracks at every edge of every board. Even skim-coat plaster and USG's DIFS requires taping of joints.
*Just curious...If you're going to 1) hang the board and 2) tape the joints, why not just use plaster?Hang blueboard instead of gray, tape as usual, then "smear" plaster instead of smearing joint compound. It's nothing like plaster over lathe, so no need to worry there. It's a simple skim or veneer coat over blueboard...with the desired "troweled" look working to your advantage in terms of you not being skilled with plaster.Plaster has a finer texture , and will give you a more refined look. Plaster also has more strength than joint compound, and will give you a "stronger" wall surface with more resistance to dings.Since you're not overly concerned with achieving a dead-flat surface, consider plaster instead of joint compound.Just an idea...
*Apologies. On first read I missed the part about "taping it as usual." Moving too fast this am. Think I need a nap.
*Ditto, Mongo. We hung 5/8" blue board and went the plaster veneer route, in our entire house (a gut and remodel). We hired plasterers for the 8000 sq foot house... good ones are very hard to find unless you're in RI or MA, where it's done regularly. It takes skill to apply the plaster veneer...but, since this is going to be in your shop and not in any formal rooms in the house, and you want a rougher texture, you could certainly go at it yourself. I can check a bag and see what brand plaster veneer we bought.. one brand gives you more time to work with it before it sets. And you don't use paper tape, you use self-sticking mesh tape..it's grayish in color. And you need to use metal mesh corner bead made for plaster veneer...not the regular corner bead used on sheetrock and tape jobs. Visit your local masonry supplier for details!
*The problem with any roughness in the wall finish is how a surprising amount of sawdust, lint, and other junk piles up on the little bumps and ledges on the wall. If you do any woodworking that creates sawdust, if you have a rough finish and want it to look clean, you will probably find yourself having to sweep or vacuum your walls regularly.
*Joe,Good advice for you from Mongo.The only thing I'd add is get yourself a copy of the USG Gypsum Construction Handbook. There's lots of good info in there.www.USG.com800/874-4968If you do decide to go with veneer plaster I'd like to know how it turns out.Dave
*Is there a chemical that can be sprayed on regular drywall so it can be skimcoated? Like in I think I want to do it that way now that I have most of it done for just tapeing and paint.
*Plasterweld is commonly used to bond veneer plaster to regular gypsum board.I certainly could be mistaken, but I thought I read a few years ago of someone on the forum using a diluted yellow glue solution, rolled on the walls, as a bonding agent as well.
*PLASTER WELD soun ds like the way to go . Yellow glue seems as almost as handy as duct tape . Mark of Oz suggest that it could be added to cement to promote bond strength in concrete less than an inch thick.
*Elmers' makes a concrete bonding agent which I'm convinced is a variation of yellow glue. I've used it to "bond" a skim coat of joint compound and it works well. Addionally, I've used a very fine adhesive backed plastic mesh to cover old plaster walls and skim coat them - a supply house can guide you. Also, there are several articles over the years in Fine Homebuilding that cover this topic - check the archives.
*I'd consider using "hot mud" or quick set drywall compound.It comes in varios set times. If you're not that fast with the trowel try the 120 min for a slower set. This is a good alternative to plaster and you can knock down or sand any real high spots. Any latex based primaer like a PVA should facilitate the adhesion.
*If you're considering plastering, check out this website, http://www.oldhouseforums.net and go to the "Old Forums (Read Only)" area. Lots of kick a** info on plastering and plaster repairs. Then go to National or USG's website and pull down information. My preferences are USG Diamond for skimming, or for the plaster like that in my 1940's house (3/8" rock lath, 3/8" base, 1/16" finish... The walls could survive a bombing...), use USG Red Top Wood Fiber (or similar) with Diamond finish. Any questions, call or email USG (I'm sure National has similar service). If you get the right rep, they're pretty helpful.
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I want to achieve a pseudo-plastered look on a new drywall installation in my shop. Basically, what I have in mind is hanging the drywall and taping it as usual, but, instead of sanding the joints, I'd like to smear joint compound all over the wall, then trowel it to a partially smooth finish (I've seen this done with exterior stucco finishes). My goal is to get the stucco trowelled look, and also to avoid the tedious (for me) effort to hide the taped joints. If this works well in my shop, I'll try it on my upcoming home addition.
Is there a better alternative to regular joint compound for this? (I'm not ready to try actual plaster on "drywall" lath.) If joint compound is the way to go, what would be the most effective compound to use? Finally, are there any specific techniques I should use to achieve this sort of finish?
Thanks for any advise.
Joe