Plastic Laminate Cement: Aerosol OK?
I ordered 2 sheets of plastic laminate from Home Depot last week to build countertops for a recent kitchen cabinet job. Last time I used laminate (a few years ago) I used water based Weldwood contact cement, applied with a brush. The HD salesman (very helpful, apparently very knowledgable) suggested that since I don’t own spray equipment, a more efficient method would be to use aerosol spray cans of 3M 77 spray cement. In a quick reading of the can’s label, I didn’t see any mention of use for plastic laminate countertops.
Is this a good product to use for this application? Any suggestions, tips? Also, does this aerosol product need to be appied to both laminate and substrate or only one? Thanks for any advice.
Gary
Replies
Interesting idea but without spray equip. I can't see how you could justify the cost of all those cans.
I have used this very product and the spray pattern is relatively small--can you say sore finger---i could only imagine how many cans you would go thru.
I too have made CT and used a squeege, roller or brush---goes on way faster than all that spraying--The 3M is solvent based so stinky is only the beginning---
You do need to do both surfaces for a perm. bond--and with part. board or ply you need to do that surface with two coats cause the first soaks in and seal the pores of the substate.
End cuts and BS would be a good use for the aerosol but just can't imagine it would be pratical for such a large surface area.
Guess what it boils down to is IMHO can cement is the better way to go--cheaper, I think faster, and less smelly.
Welcome to the party--did ya bring any chips?
Mike
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Maybe for a small area, but for a countertop I don't think so. I have used that stuff for small repairs but it doesn't seem like you can get enough product out for a good stick. Also buy the time you get one side sprayed you are most likely running out of time to get the second side done.
Just get a roller and a throw away brush if it is just a one time job, if you do a lot of PLAM then a spray system for $400-600 might be nice.
we had a guy working with us a few years ago, all he did was countertop fixes, fried his brain from constant exposure to the contact cemment fumes .. MAKE SURE THE AREA IS WELL VENTILATED!!!!
When a countertop company sprays contact cement, it is not the same cement you would be able to buy. The spray equipment is specialized, it's not paint equipment. Like others have said, buy an ordinary short nap roller.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Gary
I don't think Spray 77 is the thing to use, you sure you don't mean Spray 90? I have the Spray 77 and I use that to adhere paper and other things down that don't need to be there for 20 years.
I've used it(the Spray 90) a lot and it works as good as any contact cement, that's because it is!
You can roll it though as others suggested, did a lot of tops by just rolling the contact cement and they held fine.
Doug
Gary that is the stuff...I knew 77 was not it.. but it is 90 and is good stuff...
Bud
Thanks for all the helpful replies. I'll check out the "90" spray product that was mentioned. But, after considering all the replies, my inclination is to go back to the product I have used succesfully in the past, water based brush on Weldwood. Thanks mucho.
I've made lots of countertops with the aerosols, before getting a dedicated gun/canister set-up (which is nice). You can spray contact with regular spray equipment too, but may have to look at tips etc. One aerosol can is supposed to do 40 square feet if I recall correctly, so they go a long way, and do a good job. When I first started in the trade, we used to use a roller and water based contact.....the areosols do a much better job, and the gun systems do even better.
Most of the contact cements are made by one or two companies, and branded differently. Sta-put is the gold standard among all the shops I've worked in or visited (lots). I'm using a Helmitin contact right now which is good. Never had good results with 3M.Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.
I'd say too many bomb cans to get the job done....one sore trigger finger. Not to mention masking off areas so glue stays where you want it and stink.
I've had great luck with 3M 30NF contact glue. It's expensive but has low odor, rolls out like paint and I've got at least 10 years track history with no failures. You likely won't find it at the Borg. Mckillican has it locally. Comes in two flavors, mint and vanilla.
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/HttpController?node=GSNJX98KGFgs&root=GST1T4S9TCgv&vroot=CX2WXLSHJ7ge&gvel=62QWM928KWgl&bgel=QVW85WV0KDbl&theme=us_attachmenttapes_3_0&command=SearchOutlinkHandler&boundary=rootsearch&from=0&to=10&search=keyword&term=30nf&x=18&y=4
How does one shrink URLs?
I was a dyed in the wool solvent glue guy until I used this stuff. It really looks like it isn't going to stick... I was very skeptical at first...it's that different. There are probably comparable products out there, but I don't know them by name.
Climbing off soapbox now.
Opinionated bunch here, huh?
PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.