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Plastic laminate countertops

| Posted in General Discussion on January 4, 2000 11:44am

*
I am about to build plastic laminate countertops and the customer would like the front edge raised so small spills don’t run of the edge. Anybody out there done this, or have any idea how to? Any drawbacks spring to mind? My only thought so far is to glue a tapered strip to the front of the underlayment, four inches wide ,tapering from 1/8″to 0, and run the laminate over it.

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  1. Guest_ | Nov 22, 1999 11:16am | #1

    *
    Pat - Laminate does not bend well into a tight radius in the field. Have you considered using a post formed off the shelf unit? Or, are you planning to just stop at the edge band and clean it up with your router? You might consider using a nosing (oak, or whatever) that you can actually put some interesting detail on and make oversized to provide the lip you are looking for. Just a little bump up on the top of the nosing should be enough to stop the drip. (And a level countertop). With a bit of care the laminate should butt smoothly up to the nosing in spite of the lip. Comments? Ralph

    1. Guest_ | Nov 22, 1999 04:02pm | #2

      *Pat,Ralph has a great idea with the nosing. Make sure you seal it well where it joins the laminate.Rick Tuk

      1. Guest_ | Nov 23, 1999 07:24am | #3

        *You might look into any large Box store. If you measure well, they can get counter tops in any laminate quickly, and in my area cheaply. Dennis

        1. Guest_ | Nov 23, 1999 10:23am | #4

          *Building counter tops with coves & tite radius' is out of the question unless you have the special expensive equipment. [Like the other folks said] You can nose the deck with a nosing. Or a cheaper way is to buy pre-formed slabs & if you need to mitre them take them to a counter top saw station. Or better yet get them at the saw station. L. Siders

          1. Guest_ | Nov 23, 1999 10:41am | #5

            *Pat, If you decide to go with the wood nosing, Lee Valley sells a router bit for just that application. I'm sure others do, too. Although I've never used that particular bit, other LV bits have been fine. Good luck

          2. Guest_ | Nov 23, 1999 10:48am | #6

            *There is no way I'd want a detail like that in my house. In a matter of days the surface finish will start wearing off the top of that bump through abrasion. It will look like hell within 6 months. Try your best to talk them out of this detail or go with a preformed top. That's probably where he saw it in the first place.

          3. Guest_ | Nov 23, 1999 03:57pm | #7

            *Legs,Finnish the nosing with bartop epoxy.Rick Tuk

          4. Guest_ | Nov 23, 1999 06:04pm | #8

            *Call somebody that does post form tops. It's too hard and not cost effective to do this procedure without the machinery. You'd have to use vertical plam, and I've never liked tops with vert. plam., too thin.

          5. Guest_ | Nov 25, 1999 10:26am | #9

            *Hey Guys"Crazy Legs" has the best advice on this one - talk the customer out of it. Think about wiping down the countertop - where do you wisk the crumbs, etc. away - have a mini dustpan handy? What a headache the lip would be - not to mention the abuse it will take sticking up there like a sore thumb. Dumb idea! Maybe the customer needs to learn a little drip control.Go Trailblazers

  2. Pat_Jackson | Nov 26, 1999 11:30am | #10

    *
    Thanks for the advice. I have ordered the bit from Lee Valley and no I'm shopping for a router to drive it. The nosing will be maple to match the rest of the house.

  3. Pat_Jackson | Jan 04, 2000 11:44pm | #11

    *
    I am about to build plastic laminate countertops and the customer would like the front edge raised so small spills don't run of the edge. Anybody out there done this, or have any idea how to? Any drawbacks spring to mind? My only thought so far is to glue a tapered strip to the front of the underlayment, four inches wide ,tapering from 1/8"to 0, and run the laminate over it.

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