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Could someone please describe to me your method of framing a gable overhang 12 inches or under. We are not happy with our method and could use some suggestions. Please describe the order in which you frame them too. Thank you in advance. Oscar
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I've seen three methods:
1) just hang the overhanging set of rafters from the sheathing. I think this is a really bad idea.
2) frame what they call "lookout rafters". These are framing members that are installed perpendicular to the rest of the rafters and hang over the gable end. They are framed sort of like headers and take the place of what would be the last two rafters. This is a very solid way to do it. It's also very time consuming. I don't do this.
3) My favorite method. I extend the double top plate over the wall the needed distance and do the same with the ridge board. The last set of rafters sit on the top plate and hang from the ridge.
*Hi Oscar.Yours is a very good question. I hope that I might be of assistance with the answer you seek.On my 12" gable overhangs, if you are referring to the overhang that rises toward the peak, I let the roof sheathing overhang and build under that with the facia boards and back to the house with 2x4 framing, which I plywood over.I know that some inlay 2x4's into the roof rafters, back into the roof, about two rafters, and then the 12" overhang is well-supported.If you are referring to the overhang that is at the bottom of the gable, which is the soffit, then that overhang comes from the rafter tails. Let the rafter run past the outside wall of the house so that you can snap a line and plumb down each rafter and cut straight. Then attach level 2x4s back to a 2x4 ledger, from the fronts of your cut rafter tails. Then install your facia.I hope this helps.
* Oscar,
Joseph Fusco <img
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I forgot to mention that I am using trusses for roof framing and I don't use dropped down gables. I know some guys use ladders, some use half ladders, some hang raker rafter from plywood and use no blocking. Any opinions? I want to get a straight,strong overhang without notching the truss. Thanks Oscar
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Oscar -
Two things come to mind. First, there are metal brackets made that simply nail on over the top chord of the gable truss, and stick out to nail over the fly rafter. I'm not sure who makes them, however.
Second, why not notch the gable truss 4' O.C. and use 2X4 lookouts laid flat ? (Notch the top chord 3.5" wide and 1.5" deep, not the other way around) This is adequate to support a 12" overhang, but I wouldn't use it on anything over 24" for sure.
*Joe, I saw your post about the previous thread, and reviewed your photo there. That does look like a strong way to frame it. Thanks.Question, if you framed a gable overhang that way, how do you vent the gable overhang? Or do you have to? I mean, wouldn't those unventilated boxes between the outlooks heat up a lot in the summer, and perhaps cause delamination of the plywood roof decking? (It gets hot in Dixie!) Not questioning the method, just looking to learn.I've framed a gable overhang when using trusses by a method previously described. Notch the truss, lay 2x4 outlooks flat to create the eave. I put 2x4 blocking on each outlook, and sistered a 2x4 to the notched rafter afterwards. It was a lot of work. It has not sagged. The eaves were/are 28".
*Joe, thanks for the thread. We usually use the method you illustrated for anything over 12" Anything under 12" we use the same as reponse #14.1.1 ( Oh Great Sacred Cow )Let the ridge run, let the roof sheathing extend, extend a false fascia (usually 2x4) and then build a ladder of 2x4. Cut the lookouts square , nail them tight, cut the ridge down to a 2x4 and nail on the fly rafter. Pay close attention to the nailing schedule and that sucker will be as straight as it was installed as long as the roof stays dry. If you let the maintenance go, nothing is going to stay straight. Naturally, string and block to get it right. This is for a 1x6 rake. If you're using a 1x8 rake, build everything out of 2x6.
*I know knotchin the truss is great but the truss boys frown on it. I like the dropped gable truss but then you have to cut a barge rafter and extend your plates (or hang it totally from lookouts....is it in line with the ridge.....where is the ridge??? what ridge.....is it sticking out too far past the others.....hmmmm or is it pulled in.....). Another method i like on 16" or less gable overhangs is to use the "crown" in the decking to my advantage. Although I hate building a truss roof sometimes it is called for. I turn my first layer of decking so that the crown is down ( forcing the lower end up). i then build up a ladder of 2x4's on the ground after decking the roof. I nail the ladder to the decking and to the gable end truss. The gable truss is stinglined and straightend before the decking is installed. Also we draw a line on the decking to follow just to be sure.......I wouldnt use this method on a 24" overhang though i dont think.....i prefer the dropped gable there.......
*Oscar,We generally frame our overhangs with the lookout method that Ryan described. Most times we build them on the ground first and lift them with a crane or Lull into place. On some jobs we cantilever a piece of 6x8 or larger roughsawn out from the wall the rafters sit on. The top of the 6x is the same as the t.p.. We then place a rafter at the end of the 6x. On your building we would build the last 2' of the flat wall 7 1/2 " shorter. The beam would be inside the building 2' and out side 3'. Customers really like the exposed beam end. We have installed decorative gabel beam ends on the last three houses. Other times we build knee braces to support of the overhang.
*And the problem with a full ladder is????
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Could someone please describe to me your method of framing a gable overhang 12 inches or under. We are not happy with our method and could use some suggestions. Please describe the order in which you frame them too. Thank you in advance. Oscar