Hello, I was hoping some of you could verify some thoughts I had, and/or give me some guidance on installing a shower stall. The floor where I want to place the shower is a concrete slab. I’m Thinking that in order to accomodate the plumbing (drain pipe) I’m going to need to frame up a platform for the shower to sit on that will allow for the drain pipe + the 90 degree bend. Your advice will be greatly valued.
Thanks
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Or cut the slab and chip it out.
I think (know) you had better plan on a trap also. Where is the line you are attaching to?
Yeah, didn't think about the trap. The drain will hook up to a sump pump.
That doesn't sound real code.
Joe H
Trap needed ------ Yes
Vent needed------ Yes
sump pump---- ok-------where is the pump draining to?
Anyways back to square one----- you can chip out concrete for the trap to sit into then frame around that to set base on------- but I'm pretty sure you're limited to an 8" step.
Sump pump might depend on his location.
I don't know much about plumbing at all, however around here you can not run a drain line into a sump pit.
They can go into a lift, but the lifts need their own seperate vent line through the roof.
Yeah terminology
I wasn't even thinking of a basement sump basin.
Maybe not a pit, but a tank.
Many people have 30 gallon (garbage can like) tanks set in the floor of the basement, which has a submerged pump to move teh water up and out.
I don't know of any codes that will allow you to hook up a shower to a sump pump; sump pumps are for clear water not waste water. what the original post needs is an ejector pump.
Thanks for all of your input. Right now I have a device, I called it a sump for lack of a proper name, that pumps waste from an existing toilet and sink up and out. That presently has one vent coming up out of it. The device sits behind the basement wall and is only a few feet away from everything it services. I was hoping to avoid cutting the concrete, but it seems as though that's the rout I'll have to take. What about clearing clogs from the trap? Not that I have that problem with other showers, but once the pipe is covered w/ concrete I hope I don't have to ever chip it out again. Of course, Now that I think of it, the traps on my other tub and shower aren't very accessable either. While I'm on the subject, the check valve (I assume it's a check valve) is really noisy. Makes a "cachunk!" sound when it goes off. Any thoughts on that? Again, thanks for all your help.
"While I'm on the subject, the check valve (I assume it's a check valve) is really noisy. Makes a "cachunk!" sound when it goes off. Any thoughts on that?"
Only that if it stops making that sound you're gonna be in really deep sh#t
Standard disclaimer " I am not a plumber and have no knowledge of the code at hand". There should be no worry about a trap and cleaning it out. Make sure you get a drain for the shower that has the pop out strainer/cover. I will find you a like and post if you wish. It is pretty easy to clean out a 2" trap directly below the drain.
I would make sure the back flow preventer/checkvalve was accessable. I would think it should go into the "pit" at a level a little above the normal high level also.
I doubt that your check valve is the noise, probably the pump starting up.
And they say this stuff only runs down hill.
The trap is not under the drain its usually under the overflow. The drain has a hard 90 then tees into the verticle overflow. If you need to snake your tub you are better off going through your overflow. In my house I have a galvanized trap with a radius of around 1.75 inches and there is no way of getting a snake through it. I have to go to the vent on the roof to clean it. If I were planning to stay here much longer I would replace it with ABS.
This is for a shower.Never seen a shower with an overflow.
Yes you have,... it is called a curb :)
As Bill pointed out this is a shower in a basement that has an ejector pump setup. We were talking about a backflow (check valve) to keep anything in the collection basin from coming back into the shower.
Did I miss something?
I thought we were talkin bout the check valve to keep what ya pump out from coming back into the sump pit.
What I was talking about was one between the shower and pit, not knowing his layout. Not instead of an after pump but a secondary. I could envision a pump failure and level going higher than desired and back feeding the shower. Maybe that is not done.
Oh ok
Well that one always works better on paper than in real life.
Problem with check valves is that they are real restrictive, & on a gravity waste line they can cause a clog real easy.
I have one with my house. I decided to use an AIV at the kitchen on a 2" drain that has a washer t'ed in with vent running up to main vent. I get a gurgle when the washer drains. I am pretty sure it is surface tension from soap bubbles causing a little burp. Another house I had one time with a long run for the washer would pump soap suds out the vent.
Shortly after we moved in DW ran a bunch of potato peels down the disposal. At one point I thought it had clogged something. She has been retrained. I put a 2" check just upstream of the T but it will get a little crud and then not prevent the burp.
The rationale was with the cath. ceiling it would have been a pain for the vent. The whole thing is just a minor annoyance but gives the cats something to liven up their day.
To add to what boats said
That's fairly normal, you have a slight delay in the check closing ---- usually caused by a small piece of forign debris causes the check to hang up slightly.
So when the pump stops you get a small surge of liquid coming back down the pipe, then the check slams shut giving you that "cachunk" sound
Vent location always seems to come up in these post.
How close to the trap does a vent have to start up? I have always use 36" rot , and try to get closer if possible.
If the OP drains his shower to a crock or ejection pump some distance away, does he need a vent at the shower? that either goes up there, or ties into the vent at the pump crock?
Picking your mind, if you don't mind.
Dave
By code you do need two vents.
2" trap arm on shower, vent needs to be with in 5' & that includes studor vents if legal in your area.
Ejection pump tank needs to be vented.
According to the UPC you can combine with house vent as long as it's sized accordingly.
Venting for pumps goes by the gpm not the # of fixtures going into it
7.5 gpm = 1 fixture unit
2" vent can handle 24 fu's
Thanks.