Can anyone recommend a good resource for rough plumbing information. I have checked out a few books but most are geared toward DIY fixes for leaky taps etc. I have looked at a few articles on FHB and they have been helpful. I now have a starting point of what I need to do but need to know things like can I have a 2nd floor toilet drain into the main stack line above a sanitary tee from a main floor sink. Obviously I need help. This is for a cottage that I am building so I have a blank canvas to work with. The last thing I want to do is screw things up.
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I have never seen a good book for various rough in methods.
I do know that you cannot tap into the 3" line above the downstairs sink. That is called "Wet" venting.
If you install a 3" "Y" below the san T then it will be OK.
knew about the wet venting. The fine craftsman who plumbed my house left me a reminder of how important proper venting is. My plan is that all the downstairs fixtures will tie into a separate 1 1/2" vent line that will tie into the stack above the second floor fixtures (or so I think). The more I think about it the more obvious it is that I am going to need a good book. If I find one I might send a copy to above mentioned plumber.
I'd recommend the Taunton book too.
Been awhile since I've seen it but I think it will show you everything you need to know to lay out a 2 story house.
Joe H
Another vote for "Plumbing a House", by Peter Hemp. http://www.amazon.com/Plumbing-House-Peter-Hemp/dp/0942391403
plumbing code book is the best
If you want the mack daddy of info get the illustrated study guide of the UPC put out by IAPMO.
It is what most of my union's teachers go by when they are instructing the apprentices.
http://www.iapmostore.org/iapmo/shop/product_info.php?products_id=5
I use a book called "Basic Plumbing Illustrated", by Massey. It covers most common situations, and has good info for clearances and rough dimensions. Stan
I glanced over the Taunton book "Plumbing a House" a few years ago and it seems to me like it actually had some useful information in it. Wouldn't swear to that, however. If you haven't checked out Taunton's books on plumbing, you might look at:
http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore/catalog/Plumbing-And-Wiring
the "code check" folders can really help you out also. the have general,plumbing,elec.,hvac. worth spending the 100 bucks for all if your building the place yourself. larry
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
you can get a hundred different books and they all be the basic, but the best one out there is the taunton book 'Plumbing a house" not because of here but its really good, Lowes and Home depot has it. Stay away from the black and decker book, real pretty pictures but not code approved.
.
two ways to screw up concrete 1) concrete driver 2) concrete finisher
thanks all. I will give the Taunton book a try. local HD didn't have it. Also,I really like the other taunton books I have purchased in the past so it sounds like a good fit.
Here's another vote for Hemp's book. I plumbed my whole house using it, and a few others. If you haven't done any/much plumbing before, there is some value to the Black and Decker books. I didn't trust them for the code related issues (pipe sizing, vent layout) but found all of the pictures helpful as I tried to teach myself how to make all of the connections.Hemp's book has a companion volume that has been out of print for a while (my library had a copy). He mentions it in the book (I don't have the exact name nearby). The book others have recommended focuses on the rough work, the companion volume has more about the finish end (installing fixtures, etc.).I also couldn't have done it without a copy of the actual code. Around here it is the IRC. The book was expensive ($70, I think), but worth every penny. There were a number of times that I didn't think I would be able to do something after reading a quick description in Code Check, but found I actually could once I read the entire code in the IRC. I don't mean to knock Code Check, it is extrermemly valuable for what it is (a quick reference), and I use it a lot. But when you really need to sort something out, there is no substitute for reading the actual code.Reading the IRC can be tough. You have to learn a new language. But if you start with Hemp's book, and maybe have a Code Check as well, you should be able to figure it out (I was).One last thought. Don't forget about air-admittance valves. They can save you a lot of headaches. I used to make a lot of money doing roofing repairs on houses where the plumbers popped another vent out of the roof for every room with a drain. I brought all of the vents together that were near the main stack, and used AAV's on the rest. Less holes in my roof. The only hole in my roof is for the 3" main stack.Good luck.-RichP.S.--go buy one of these ( http://www.amazon.com/Lufkin-X46-Red-End-6-Inch-Folding/dp/B00002N5KI ). They make life a lot easier when you are trying to get exact lengths for the next piece of drain pipe you need to cut. PVC/ABS won't go all the way into their fittings until the glue softens them, so you have to account for this in your measurements. Having this ruler, that I could adjust and hold in place with one hand, was WAY easier than trying to do it with a tape measure.
Thanks. all good advise. I will look into the other book from hemp as well. As far as the AAVs go I will definitely be using one. I put a lot of time into laying out the floor plan to minimize costs for plumbing runs and electrical. The one thing I could not get away from was the necessity to vent the kitchen sink that is to be installed in a peninsula. Found the articles on FHB about the vents and gave a sigh of relief........my wife wanted the peninsula...had to figure out a way to make that happen!!
I have always used my well-worn copy of this - http://www.amazon.com/Plumbing-Apprentice-Handbook-Dodge-Woodson/dp/0070717729
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Forrest - not a plumber