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I’m finally doing my own kitchen and have a couble of plumbing questions:
I’ve heard of systems that maintain high water temperatures in the hot water pipe right up to the faucett using a thermostatically controlled pump and a return loop. Has anyone used one of these systems before?? What are your impressions? Or, is there a better way to get hot water quickly?
Whats the best way to reduce pressure drops and temperature fluctuations in my upstairs bathrooms?? I’ll be running new plumbing for the second floor in the kitchen’s wet wall in preparation for next year’s master bath/bedroom remodel.
Thanks guys, I appreciate any advice.
-Mike
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Mike;
Answer 1: Yes. It works, but I usually have seen the whole home on a loop (or perhaps 2 loops, upstairs/downstairs). You can do it for one sink or service point, I suppose. I've used a thermostatically controlled pump, and then put it on a 24 hour timer. This way it only runs during hours that water is likely to be used. And yes, it does waste energy-but this is a trade-off with the wasted water.
Answer 2: Upsize the pipes to the second floor. Also, install pressure compensating valves to eliminate temp fluxuations.
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Run atleast 3/4" pipe to the upstairs and temp controled valves. avoid sharp corners (ell's) where you can to cut down noise.
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I saw a system in a magazine that used a passive loop ,no pump .It supposedly worked on the fact that heat rises .I cant remember but I assume that your heater would have to be lower than your point of use with a return line .Thinking about this now it seems that the return would be under pressure to and wouldnt work but it made perfect sense when I read it the first time .Good luck ,---- Chuck , now where the heck is that magazine
*Nibco plumbing fittings makes a CPVC device that circulates hot water by "gravity". Check with your local pluming supply house to see if they carry the Nibco brand.Frank
*actually, the "gravity" system works by way of a thermo-syphon. You pull the hot off the top of the water heater, and the return goes into the bottom. The tendancy for the hot water to exit the top of the tank up into the plumbing, will suck the cooler water back in the return.(In case it doesn't work, I'd leave a section for a small $75 pump, though.)BTW, I ran across a neat-looking device (don't know if it works). It attaches to the hot and cold at the point of service. You hit a switch (or trigger a motion sensor) and it pumps the cool water out of the hot line and back down the cold water line. When it senses hot it stops. By that time, (ideally) you are turning on the hot faucet.Certainly not for new construction, but it is not a bad fix when faced with a remote heater or waiting for 3 minutes.But I forgot the name of the thing....Adam
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I'm finally doing my own kitchen and have a couble of plumbing questions:
I've heard of systems that maintain high water temperatures in the hot water pipe right up to the faucett using a thermostatically controlled pump and a return loop. Has anyone used one of these systems before?? What are your impressions? Or, is there a better way to get hot water quickly?
Whats the best way to reduce pressure drops and temperature fluctuations in my upstairs bathrooms?? I'll be running new plumbing for the second floor in the kitchen's wet wall in preparation for next year's master bath/bedroom remodel.
Thanks guys, I appreciate any advice.
-Mike