My plumber used what he says is an alternate and code acceptable drain assembly.
This home is being built in the county with no inspections.
Typically, our plumber runs sink drains stubbed out prior to sheetrock. To finish he normally uses a male adapter on the 1 1/2″ drain pipe coming out of the wall / ties the 1 1/4″ drain assembly into the pipe and at the male adapter and uses a nut on the male adapter and plastic washer to seal the stub out drain to the drain assembly. In the last house he used a glue on adapter that reduces the 1 1/2″ to 1 1/4″ . He then slid the drain assemble into the reducer and glued the joint.
One of these alternate method conections failed and leaked. It has caused me to question all of the other sinks as they also use this alternate glue instead of screw methods of connection.
His reasoning is that it is a better application when so much activity can go on under the sink and loosen the nuts. He alos admits that it is faster and cheaper.
The home has 11 sinks, all except the decorative pedistal lav in the Powder have this type of drain assembly.
I have created and attached a drawing for your review.
Replies
Oh so that's what that funky reducer is for.
I throw them away.
OK in all honesty that is a piece of crap. & here's why
If you glue the trap arm how do you replace it when it fails & yes in time it will fail by design.
If it gets plugged how are ya supposed to get a snake through the trap arm with that 90 pointing down.
Traps tail pieces & trap arms are weak points designed to be removed for maintenance uses.
If you use a slip joint nut & washer put on correctly you shouldn't have any problems even with some moderate banging on the pipes.
Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
Rex Cauldwell in "Remodel Plumbing" had a nice 1.5" method I've used on my kitchen sink and a few others. Thread a 1.5" male adapter onto the sink drain, get a 1.5" P trap. Measure and fit the ABS for both ends. The trap assembly installs to the stub out and the adapter with a pair of Fernco couplings. Got a problem, just slide the couplings back and go at it. Nice, industrial feel to it.
No more 1.25" with all those compression fittings.
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
I once saw that specific joint fail, but it turned out it "failed" because the plumber had never even glued it.
That's really the main downside. The pipe up to the tee is glued up during rough plumbing, then the plumber comes back and installs the fixtures. If that joint is glued, it's generally the only part that requires glue, and it's therefore apt to get less than ideal attention. Not clear that it would actually save time, though it may save a little money.
His reasoning sounds like backfill, but who knows.
In terms of "quality," if I had a nickel for every old trap I had to cut out 'cause whoever installed it soldered or glued it in, well . . . I guess I'd have a lot of nickels. When I see an installation like that, I tend to curse the guy who put it in that way.
Aside from long term quality, if it doesn't leak and passes inspection, fine. I would never do it that way, but I'm not a plumber and I don't tend to do 11 sinks at a clip. ;-)
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
I run 1½" from the rough connection right through the trap, then solvent-weld a 1½x1¼ nipple on the sink-side of the trap. The tailpiece off the sink drain slides straight down into that with the compression washer under the 1¼ ring nut.
This enables easy installation/removal of the sink, easy clean-out if the drain/trap gets jammed with lots of hair (which doesn't come out through the trap plug all that easily) and works for either metal or plastic tailpieces (both are common).
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
Thanks to ALL who posted. You have confirmed my inclination to believe it is an inferior application.
11 sinks, you may notice that this is a large expensive custom home. The HO deserves the best. In checking yesterday, I found another sink that was loose at the identified connection.
My plumber says he is willing to come back and redo all drain connectons if I am uncomfortable. The input from ALL has given me confidence in making the requirement.
I also posted this question on Terry Love's Plumbing Forum. I have not checked those responses. They have no attachment option for my drawing.
Edit: checked the post to Terry Love, in the same time I received several really good post from BTers, 45 reads no post at Loves. Where are the plumbing pros @ Terry Loves?
Edited 4/27/2006 10:34 am ET by txlandlord
Glad I could help. I don't see why there wouldn't be any answers on the plumbing forum unless it's 'pro-only' like JLC where they turn up their noses at what they see as 'low-level' questions. I stopped bothering with JLC after getting ignored a few times. Not gonna waste my bandwidth on 'em....
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Got one response from a Moderator on Terry Loves site. Same advice as BTers.
Professional? I have been a custom builder for 21 years. I have seen many plumbing arrangements. I started as a frame carpenter in 1971. If I am not a pro having been in the business for 35 years, then who qualifies? : - )
Maybe they are loooking for plumbing pros.
Thanks for your help D.
I use to know a lot of Professional Plumbers, most are long gone. Your alternate method was a against code, being that slip joints were always in a vertical pipe so there would not have the slip joint in or under water all the time.
Plumbing Inspectors use to require all the sinks filled with water and would see if any of the traps would leak. Slip joints will leak if any debris or scratches are involved.
Since you are questioning the quality of the plumbing installation, try testing the quietness of the waterpipe installation. Turn faucets on and off quickly to see if it results in water hammer. Improperly secured water pipe will produce water hammer.
Edited 4/27/2006 2:05 pm ET by Sungod
Since you are questioning the quality of the plumbing installation, try testing the quietness of the waterpipe installation. Turn faucets on and off quickly to see if it results in water hammer. Improperly secured water pipe will produce water hammer.
No problems in the walls. I checked these long ago, prior to drywall and when water was on. This aternate method was recently discovered outside the walls in the cabinets.
Your alternate method was a against code, being that slip joints were always in a vertical pipe so there would not have the slip joint in or under water all the time.
So, the alternate method is against IBC? I do know it is the first time I have ever seen such an application.