I had this over in Techniques with no responses. Thought I’d try it here.
I’m getting ready to do an exterior remodel on my 18 yr old house. TYP 2×4 framing, 1/2″ black foil faced foam board insulation with plywood corners an Tyvek, Andersen Narrowline windows and cedar siding.The cedar should never have been put on over the foam board but it lasted this long but is checked and cracked all to pieces on the west and south sides of the house.
I plan to replace the windows with K&K or similar with aluminum exteriors. The siding will be replaced with Hardi and the trim with a composit material. I’m not sure how to handle the sheathing. I want to be able to close the doors without the house rattling and give the HardiPlank a suitable sheathing. I plan to cover the walls with 7/16″ OSB or 1/2″ plywood and Tyvek. Should I just go over the foamboard and Tyvek or remove them and start at the studs?
k
Replies
Having the foil (a vapor barrier) buried inside the wall seems problematic. What's your location/climate?
I live in westeren VA in the Shenandoha Valley. Summers are moderately hot and humid temps in the 80s and 90s, winters are moderately cold with day temps in the 30s and 40s typically. Humidity is lower during the winter season.
Thanks,
k
Check out this site for genera info on vapor barriers http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers/?topic=/designguidance/buildingscienceanddesign/walldesign/main_topic
Based on what I've read, I'd be inclined to tear it off and start at the studs.
do you primarily heat or cool....
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That's a tuff call, but I would say heat. It usually runs from late October to late April. There is usually a little time on either end where the A/C gets a break.
k
Mr. Piffen has it...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I don't see the foam location on the outside as a problem for your climatic location and heat vs cooling loads.
I do not think you would gain much of the structural integrity you are looking for by going over the foam with sheathing though.
Since you are doing this whole hog, here is how I would approach it -
Remove things down to the studs. Save some of the 1/2" foam if you can.
re-sheathe with the new.
Go over all that with 1" foil faced foam. You may be able to use some of the salvaged doubled up in the waste locations to save a hundred bucks.
Use the Tyvek and then some strips 3/8" for rainscreen wall.
Then your new siding.
Now you have doubled the insulation value of that ply instead of losing it , made the house solid, and better looking with lower maint cost for the future.
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He is going to have to fur out ( exterior jamb extensions) his window and door openings ~ 7/8" now right? What do you think would be the best way to do this.
Got a bunch of different scenarios bouncing around in my head (literally bouncing, too much coffee and no physical activity to balance it).
1. Once down to the studs, wrap the opening with some 5/4 planed down to 7/8". Then just butt his sheathing/insulation/rain screen to it.
2. Put down your sheathing/insul/rainscreen, then put on 7/8" jamb extension, then trim.
3. Same as #2 but attach jamb extensions to exterior trim first, then put everything up.Live by the sword, die by the sword....choose your sword wisely.
Many ways possible. Part depends on his new ROs I really don't have a problem using screws in the nailing fins over foam. You have good control over how deep you sink them and I use spray foam to more or less glue and lock the unit in place to the framing anyway.
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Whoops! Forgot that he was replacing the windows and doors. Was thinking they were staying in placeLive by the sword, die by the sword....choose your sword wisely.
Ah Soh Grasshopper
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!