I have pockets in 3 locations with 3’x9′ custom fir panel doors that will close towards perpendicular walls with a 3-1/2″ clear pine baseboard. The 2 choices are to interrupt the base to allow for the door to flush up with the wall when the door is closed (extended) or to notch the door to slide over the base. I’ve seen the the former done, but not the latter. These pockets will be rarely used, so I’m thinking the continuity of the base is probably more critical. Also I don’t want to run a jamb vertically up the wall on the strike side, since the doors are not supposed to be obvious.
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I think the latter would be really, really, really nice looking if the profile were cut perfectly, the door hung perfectly, and the door/wall joint were perfect.
Maybe you could let a jamb into the wall so the surface of the jamb & wall were flush and stop & return the base right at that joint.
It's a good question. I'd love to see pics when you're done.
>>"Maybe you could let a jamb into the wall so the surface of the jamb & wall were flush and stop & return the base right at that joint."
Man if I don't pick up a good idea or two every time I come on this site. Slick solution; something different that would be a differentiating detail. Do the same treatment on the pocket side and this would look just right in my mind. Only other thing that comes to mind is to not return the base so when the door is closed it looks like it dies into the door -- but if the door is open most of the time, your idea is very, very appealing.
(Oh, maybe it's a regional thing -- way I usually see it is the base dies into the casing and the jamb just has the stops, just (almost, except for two stops) like a regular door -- that's why this seems so different and I think it would look just right)
Seeking perfection in an imperfect world is a fool's errand. Making something look perfect is a whole 'nother story . . . .
Edited 3/4/2006 10:41 am ET by philarenewal
Interesting dilema!
I can think of at least four or five doors where I have had this setting and always designed it so there is a portionof jamb on the wall and an interrupt in the baseat partial plinths to the jamb, but that jamb is the very thing you are trying to avoid, so the shaped door solution is probably necessary, but it still lacks something in my thiking.
Anyway, it you have to do it that way there area couple of details necessary
----make sure the plaster wall finish is solid and plumb or it willl bruise where the door contacts it, edpending on how hard that contact is. Slam it closed ONE time and the wall is damaged - which leads to my second point
------the base would then be functioning as a stop at the bottom. To save wall damage, be carefull how much you carve out. You want the door to contact base before contacting wall. I would also make a stop block to screw up in the track for a stop at the top
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Such a small baseboard with such large doors is disproportionate so knowiing you a little bit, I figure this is a modern style. You probably wish you weren't even using a baseboard!
;)
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LOL. Yes and no. Give me a few minutes and I'll try to post a picture to give you a better idea.
Here are a couple of pics, took forever to upload for some reason.True my architectural aesthetics are modern but probably more mid-century modern, but I'm a carpenter too, so this house is full of wood: heart pine, fir, cedar, mahogany, poplar and birch (some oak furniture) and stainless steel. It has no plastic, except for FG (Marvin Integrity) windows. The pockets are tall doors because the openings are full height separating a 12' high living/kitchen area from a 9' high entrance corridor.
That makes it a WHOLE new perspective - thousand words tothe picture and all that...This is really more of a sliding wall panel than a pocket door!But given your prodigious use of wood, it seems like a piece of heart pine or fir routed as a slot to act like a jamb with stops would be right at home there. I definitely would not slit the baseboard bare as you have it there. BTW, Heart pine! You're all right in my book!Here is a shot i took today to update a customer on progressMake that two shots plus one of stair treadsI love heart pine. My own living room and dining is just like yours
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Hey Piffin,
Did you build that wainscoting, or did you just do the floor?
Edited 3/4/2006 9:30 pm ET by MSA1
floor finish - remodel jobBut I've done a few similar to that on wainscot
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Here's one
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Nice work. This has been asked before but, how do you attach photos? Thank God I dont work on computers for a living.
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=24441.1That is one resourcehttp://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=24441.92
is a post I just added to cover the basics near the end of the thread. It'll save retyping so much
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Maybe its popup blocker. I hit the attach files button and nothing happens.
Yes the heart pine is nice. We posted back and forth about that last year IIRC, I stickered it for almost a month, running fans, moisture meter, etc. I used Waterlox tung oil on it and am quite pleased with the results. I'm planning on using the same on all the clear pine trim and windows also. My next task is to build these pocket doors (or panels) out of clear fir. The prices I've been quoted for custom are a little more than I want to spend.
Tgny: One thought, for the pictures Middle pocket, and front pocket. The middle pocket looks like you could wrap the end of the wall with 3/4" jamb kind of like a column on the end wall 3 sides 1x4 or 1x6. Then the front pocket is at the corner a full height jamb would not look bad with the base butting into the jamb rather than the 45 corner. The house looks a bit like a craftsmen so the clean square 1x material may look fine. I don't think I would notch the base.
Jeff
Same thinking
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That was my original intention, but when it all came together, I reconsidered it, guess I'm going to consider it again. The problem is the rear pocket will just clear the back door casing, so it won't work there.
Interesting problem. I am curious as to the application for these doors. You say not frequently used and to close against a wall.
ARe they to be used to close off a hallway perhaps?
Exactly!
Is teh hallway only 3 feet wide? Nine feet tall and only 3 feet wide?