Hi,
I had a contractor do a remodel and part of that included replacing a hinge door with a pocket door.
The pocket door frame has bowed such that the door rubs up against the frame. The door is difficult to open is being damaged.
I asked the contractor to look at it but was told that it was due to cold weather (I am in Chicago) as it is near an exterior door.
I don’t disagree that weather may have something to do with it but the movement seems extreme in such little time (3 months since install).
I went back and looked at the pictures of the framing of the opening. It looks like the header consists of two 2x12s connected right above the metal frame of the pocket door.
Would love to get thoughts – weather, framing or combination? Thoughts on how to fix it? Should I shave the wood framing to make the gap larger or will it just bow even more?
Thanks!
Matt
Replies
I have installed several and trouble shot many more (not my installs tho…..lucky.
How long from install to problem?
In most cases when a door rubs it’s the door that’s warped or bowed. Have all sides and top/bottom been sealed?
The metal frame members have seldom (if ever)been bent causing rub.
Full length metal straight edge (6’ or more) on door should tell the tale, if it’s warped.
Or, take a long string and run it over and around door and pull tight. View each side….might show warp.
Cockeyed track might cause it to bind.
The final (jamb) trim could be warped…or too wide, not allowing enough room for door to clear. His fault if too wide/or warped. It shouldn’t pull the metal if that’s straight.
Edit
And, one more possibility. The wall is out of plumb. The door hanging plumb will usually rub on the bottom.
And, in most installs, one or both of the split side jambs or stops will be removable easily (usually screwed) so you can easily remove the door slab from the opening. Can’t see that from here.
Thank you Calvin. Door was installed end of September 2024 so not too long ago. It worked perfectly when first installed. We don’t use it too often and originally thought we were pushing on it too much causing the rub as I noticed the rubbing slowly.
I took a look as you suggested.
Here’s what I found:
-Checked the door, flat / not warped
-Opening at top and bottom for the door is 1-11/16” wide
-At its narrowest in the middle, it gets to 1 3/8” (also the width of the door)
-I only had a 4’ level handy but the right side of the jamb is plumb (1/16” off). The left side is where I lose it. See pic. The level is plumb but you can see how the trim bows in toward the door.
-I checked the drywall on the same wall. See 2nd pic. At the cabinet, the wall is plumb but 20” over right before the trim, it’s also bowed.
I was thinking I would remove the jamb trim and widen the opening. However, since the jamb can’t bow in any further as it’s up against the door, will the jamb just bow further after I widen it? It seems odd that only one side of the jamb would be bowed so part of me is hoping that what they installed was warped to begin with and replacing / widening it would solve it.
If you have more thoughts with this additional info on underlying issue / how to fix, would love to hear it. I just don’t think cold weather would cause this big of a movement (but it is an old house)…
Thanks!
I’m assuming that you will have room to trim down (narrow) one or both sides of the split jamb without showing the metal split jamb.
The cabinetry on one side didn’t push anything I take it?
This carpenter you hired should have left more room for this opening to operate problem free and/or should have been happy (sort of) to come back and remedy the problem.
“Can’t see it from my house” keeps resonating across this country.
“Till the tail lights dim on the horizon” is getting to be the usual warranty.
The cabinetry had a filler strip that was cut to size with a small gap between that and the wall. Working on convincing them to fix it…appreciate the insight!
I hope things work out.
In a perfect world, things happen. What some don’t realize is that if you take a bit of time to correct a problem, you very probably have a customer for life. And referrals that will fill slow times.
Well said. Problem always arise. It’s how you deal with them that matters. Even if he exceeded all expectations on everything else this contractor will always be remembered as the guy who installed the pocket door wrong and will never get a call back.
He can also rest assured it could have been worse.
I did the framing and finish on a remodel. It included a pocket door.
The homeowners cousin knew a drywaller.
Not wanting the kit door to get damaged, I installed that as well and waited what seemed like a month or more till I could finish.
They wondered why the door wouldn’t work……it did before……
I had a similar issue with a pocket door recently, and the contractor also blamed the cold. My guess is it’s a mix of temperature shifts plus framing that’s just too tight. If the header’s squeezing the metal track, shaving the wood might help, but only if everything’s done shifting. I recently had a roofing crew https://ilroofers.com/ out for some other structural work, and they warned me that changes in moisture and weather can cause bowing fast. You might wait through another season or add clearance so the door can glide without rubbing.
Heat drying out over moist wood yes……maybe.
Cold outside? Fat chance.
Either way, install gone bad, don’t wait to contact the contractor. Till the tail lights dim on the horizon is just a plain shabby warranty!
Wait a season for it to “go back”?
He could be gone to California to rape them.
But I digress.
One more thought big,
Are there 2 guides at the bottom on either side of the split jamb?