I’ve been putting off buying a table saw until I can build a shop and house it properly. The eventual plan is to set up a home shop and use it to support my side work and maybe even take on some cabinet or furniture work. But… looks like those plans are going to have to wait a while yet (the ol’ time-money non-continuum). But in the meantime I still need to buy a table saw. It won’t be a big cabinet saw as it is going to spend its first couple of years chained to a column in my carport, moved into place when needed and maybe even taken to the odd job site.
So this means buying one of the so-called ‘contractor’ saws. The ones I’ve seen and used have pretty limited fences, both for accuracy and rip capacity. Is anyone aware of a fence/rail system that can be fairly easily mounted to the saw or removed when required for transport? I can easily enough build an extension table but it’s the fence that I need ideas on.
I’ll be posting this over at Knots as well, but I’d like input from you folks to get the carpenter’s POV as well as then woodworker’s. After all, I’ll be doing both kinds of work.
TIA,
Wally
Replies
Are you sure you mean contractor's saw and are not talking about a portable unit? Contractor's saws are available with a Bisenmeyer fence, not gonna need to do much better than that. If you're talking about a portable unit then look at Bosch, Rigid, and Dewalt.
sly... i looked at Bosch.. Dewalt & PC..
i bought the PC about two years ago..
if i were doing it today.. i'd probably buy the bosch..
but if i had already bought the bosch.. i'd probably buy the PC.. i like them bothMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I don't want a little portable tabletop saw, those are too weak and have very limited ripping capacity. Can't say I've seen a contractor saw with a Biesemeyer fence but haven't really started beating the bushes yet either.
I'm aware that I'm trying to get two things here - a saw that can be transported to a site, and a saw that is big and smooth enough for quality shop work. Is it possible to find one tool that can reasonably perform both functions?
WallyLignum est bonum.
Check out the Woodtek brand my cousin sells through his Woodworkers Supply operation. Go to the website at http://www.woodworker.com and you can see photos and specs.
They are Tiawanese-made, but what isn't made on the Pacific rim, nowadays.
You'll get cast iron wings, a really good motor and fence, and excellent accuracy. The pricing is competitive with most all the other 1.5 to 2 hp saws where the motor hangs off the back, like Delta, Jet, Powermatic, Grizzly, and others.
As with any of these saws, here is what I recommend. A heavy Freud industrial rip blade, the LM72M010, a Forrest blade stabilizer pack, a good combination blade from Amana or Jesada, a couple of zero-clearance throat inserts, and an anti-vibration linked belt. Keep the top and wings waxed with the best Carnauba you can afford.
One final recommendation. Get a 220V receptacle nearby, change out the plug, and switch over the motor.
The last time I saw a weight listed for one of the delta/jet contractor's saws it was over 200 pounds, is that accurate? I've heard the portable Bosch/Dewalt/Makita saws weigh in at 50-80 pounds which is reasonable to move around. Not sure how easily transporting a 250 pound saw up 4 flights of steps in a Victorian house would work.
-Ray
I believe the thread initiator, sly karma, wants some beef here, not a tabletop portable.
I classify the table saws into these categories:
A. Portable tabletop units - 40 to 65 lbs., one man can carry, easy to take to sites for short durations.
B. Direct drive "motorized" table saws - has legs or stand, about 1 hp, breaks down and can be carried in to a site by one person. IMHO, this class is marketed as a price point item by the makers, for those that don't want to spring for the next category down.
C. "Contractor" table saws - cast iron tops, 1.5 to 2 hp external motor with belt drive, great fences available, breaks down and sets up in 45 minutes, you'll want help to move and load and unload the table and motor part, set one up on site when the job will go a couple weeks or more, and when you'll want higher accuracy and heavier capacity.
D. Cabinet saws - the Unisaw is the standard here, set it up once in your shop.
E. The big guns - types like the 12" main blade with scoring blade, big sliding tables, etc. For big cabinet and millwork shops. Industrial settings. 3-phase power.
I think most Breaktimers are into category A, and the pros over at Knots are using mostly D, with some Cs thrown in.
As far as housebuilding goes, I'm just a dabbler, a dilletante, do maybe one house per 16 months or so, move my Jet 10" contractor saw on site as soon as we're enclosed, wire it to 220, and take it back to the shop when we are all trimmed out.
Curious as to whether you think you'd be giving up much by using a Bosch 4000 or PC 3812 vs. the Jet. Been a few years but one of my least favorite things was schlepping a 250+lb Delta contractor's saw to, in, and around a job site. The newer jobsite saws seem pretty capable to me with good fences, onboard storage, ability to use a stacked dado, good dust collection and you don't seem to lose much except 6" of rip capacity and a whole lot of weight and perhaps longevity.
This is a good saw and very good value, get it at Lowes for $498:
Delta 36-650 10" Professional Table Saw
sly... so far you've been given 4 saws..
all of them have extended tables for rips up to 24"
all have reasonably accurate fences.
all cost more or less the same
some are HEAVIER than others, so portability can be a factor
me.. i'd still buy either the pc or the bosch
View ImageMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
thanks, I will go looking. I am interested in personal opinions, hence the post.
WallyLignum est bonum.
How about the Makita 2703 saw with the Rousseau table and extensions? You can get portability and the wide rip capacity and a good fence and an outfeed table. the miter slot is not too good but you can work around it. The Rousseau PortaMak 2750 table lets you wheel the whole thing around. FHB did a comparison a while back...
Billy
Sly...
Not to muddy the water, but I'm curious if you've considered forgoing (at least for now) the TS in favor of a SmartGuide? I have a Unisaw, and was planning to buy a smaller contractor saw to lug around but since I've had my SmartGuide all I bring it a circ saw, and a router and have never run into anything I couldn't take care of. My Unisaw gets a lottttttttt less use these days...
If you are not going to move it, look at the lower end Grizzly cabinet saws. Great value for the money, good product. Will last you a long time, and make the "switch" to cabinet making.
Post this question, or at least search the threads, over at "knots". A lot of people have had great luck with the Grizzly saws.
I just bought the bosch today. It looks great. I have a Powermatic 64 contractor saw in the shop but it's to heavy to move to the jobsite. I'll let you know how I like it tomorrow.