Replies

1. 
   Sasquatch | Feb 01, 2008 01:32am | #1

   I deleted the last two messages as I am trying to get my pics to the right size.

   I have used the Hitachi bits, which are similar, and they work well.  They need water lubrication and the smaller ones can get clogged up, though.

   In the pics, I use my tile saw tray to submerge the tiles for cutting.  Use only a cordless drill if you do this.

   First, I mark, then drill pilot holes with glass-cutting bits, and then use the larger bit.

   Hitachi also has a plastic dribble system for in-place cutting.  It works, but I don't give it high marks.

2. 
   Ted W. | Feb 01, 2008 01:50am | #2

   Is this like a rotozip bit, but with diamond grit? If so, at $35 I'd be willing to give it a shot. It seems it would make a lot more sense than having a different hole saw for every possible size hole that may or may not be needed.

   Would it fit in a rotozip?

   --------------------------------------------------------

   Cheap Power Tools at MyToolbox.net &Construction Equipment at BuildersTools.net
   See some of my work at AWorkOfWood.com

1. 
   Dunc1 | Feb 01, 2008 08:47pm | #3

   That seems to be the idea. Needs a 5/32 inch collet. Not sure how common this is for Bosch or if it is good in other brands. Bosch has a specific game-plan for its use enclosed with the bit - I have not seen it. In my experience, porcelain floor tile (not everyday ceramic floor tile) is so hard that it just laughs at carbide.

   Edited 2/1/2008 1:07 pm ET by Dunc1

3. 
   pickings | Feb 01, 2008 10:06pm | #4

   Tried something similar once on porcelain tiles......rpms of Dewalts version of rotozip were way too high and that bit was glowing bright red.........tried to wet it....still did not work well.

   Also tried the "carbide hole saws"........work ok on #1,2, or 3 tiles.....NOT on (#5)  porcelain

   My two tricks for cutting holes in porcelain are......

   1. do layout so that all cutting are on edges of tiles....or

   2. drill small holes w/ standard glass bit all around, then carefully try to tap out the "plug"

   FYI....#1 is the more reliable option

1. 
   EricPaulson | Feb 01, 2008 10:13pm | #5

   My two tricks for cutting holes in porcelain are......

   1. do layout so that all cutting are on edges of tiles....or

   2. drill small holes w/ standard glass bit all around, then carefully try to tap out the "plug"

   FYI....#1 is the more reliable option

   I don't mean to start an argument here but.................If you are tiling a tub for instance and at the two end walls you run a trim tile up the apron and work in from that towards the corners with full tile, how can you possibly do a layout that will put the edges of tile at the spouts and valves etc.

   You are not putting cut tile up against the trim tiles.........at least not on my job.

   That's just plain hooey advice. Sounds like something from a Home Depot Sat morning diy class.[email protected]

    

    

    

    

1. 
   pickings | Feb 01, 2008 10:34pm | #6

   Sorry. While neither method may be perfect, was just brelaying what worked for me, and as such, I am still open to any additional information on a better way to add holes to Porcelain tiles.

   Only used porcelain on a tub surround ONCE, usually on floors.

   But in that instance, I had the Horizontal joint lined up w/ the Hot/Mixer/cold holes. Tub filler was in the middle of the tile, and a PIA, so resorted to option #2.

   BTW.....it was a Sunday DIY class........and I took it twice  ;-)

   .

2. 
   Ted W. | Feb 05, 2008 03:20pm | #7

   Just cuz you disagree is no reason to call it hooey or saturday morning HD diy. I've tiled around at lease 50 tubs and my practice is to avoid full tiles where it meets the tub. I'm assuming that's what you're calling the trim line? --------------------------------------------------------

   Cheap Power Tools at MyToolbox.net &Construction Equipment at BuildersTools.netSee some of my work at AWorkOfWood.com

1. 
   EricPaulson | Feb 14, 2008 02:26am | #8

   Nah, don't get your panties in a wad.

   I was talking about the bullnose or trim tile that might run up along the side of the tub vertically and cap off the rest of the wall tile on the way up. I would not put cut tile up against the bullnose or trim tile to avaoid ahving to drill a tile further in the vertical layout.

   And I do usually avoid full tile at the tub as the tub is almost always irregular.[email protected]

    

    

    

    

4. 
   Billy | Feb 15, 2008 04:30am | #9

   It sounds like a Rotozip diamond coated Xbit for floor tile, except by Bosch.  Rotozip sent me one but I haven't used it yet.  It looks like it would be great for certain cuts:

   http://www.rotozip.com/Shop/CategorySubBrowse.htm?IID=66587&BID=18&HID=188064

   Billy