I’m building a screen porch with exposed rafter interior and I want the look of T&G sheathing without the expense. Using T-11 5/8 siding has been suggested to me as an alternative sheathing. Is this a good idea? Any other alternatives? I’ve thought about routing V-grooves in plywood sheathing to get the shadow lines but seems like a lot of work. The roof is shed, 4in12, 2X8s 16o.c..
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Check the materials ... some T-111 has 4" grooves, and some has 8" grooves. Also, the grooves are square cut and about 1/4" wide ... not sure that emulates the look of t&g boards ... maybe your idea of routing v-grooves would look better ... if you could rout straight lines.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
The T-11 I've seen has grooves 8"o.c. and they are probably 1/2" wide which doesn't look like T&G to me so I'm leaning toward the routed v-grooves. 8 passes per sheet , 8 sheets of plywood shouldn't take toooo long....thanks
you can get "bead board" in 4x8 sheets if that's the look you want.
instead of going through the hassle of setting up and routing the plywood
You can buy plywood with a surface that looks like beadboard. The faces are not rough sawn like T-111. The "boards" are about 3" wide if I remember. I used it on a previous house and it worked quite well.
Since the woods that plywood is made of are not particularly rot resistant, I'd suggest treating all the surfaces of the wood with a preservative such as Woodlife before the sheathing is applied. In my case I also painted the exposed (bottom) face with a muted sky blue (two coats acrylic latex) which is the traditional color for porch ceilings. I painted the blue before the sheathing was applied which was much easier than trying to cut in around the natural oak beams my porch incorporated.
Be careful when shingling your roof that the roofing nails are not so long the pop through and show.
And for all that don't know it yet........................
that sky blue, helps avoid bee's nests..they think it's impossible, and don't try.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Get out. You serious?
I never met a tool I didn't like!
No, I made it up..{G}
OF COURSE I'm serious..old timers told me.
Paint a cieling white...ya get wasps
Paint it blue...no wasps
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
"that sky blue, helps avoid bee's nests..they think it's impossible, and don't try."
That's the coolest thing I've heard all day! Can't wait to pull that one oughta my undercarriage someday.
I am just finishing up building my own home and used T1-11 as exposed sheathing for both a covered front porch and a screen porch, as well as in the soffits with exposed rafter tails. I ordered a bundle with grooves 4" o.c., which I think makes the difference. You are not going to fool anyone into thinking that it's actual T&G sheathing, but it makes a nice detail anyways.
I'd be happy to share some pictures, but to by honest, I've never taken the time to learn how to post them here, nor do I have the time right know to learn. I would be more than happy to email them to you or to anyone else who is interested. Maybe somebody would be willing to post them for me. That would be great!
Good luck.
Craig
You biggest problem will be nails popping through. T1-11 would work fine for the sheathing but you will need to use 3/4" nails. These are not a lot of fun to hand nail and not easy to find everywhere as well. We usually opt for spending the money by using shiplap pine and covering with a second layer of 7/16 osb. It does add to the cost.
Funny -- Im investigating sheeting options for a screened porch Im building as well. The 1x8 T&G is the traditional look for exposed wood over rafter tails, but in the screened porch its exposed all through out. Thickness of the material is the real quandry: 3/4" material is the minimum for 7/8" nails to not be exposed (except where they poke out in the v-groove.) 7/8" nails come in coils from larger roofing supply houses so you can shoot 'em. T-11 isn't 3/4" so not sure what others who used t11 were referring to . At about $0.85 a linear foot the 1x8 T&G will run about $1.40 a square foot. THe Georgia Pacific ply -bead looks good but is only 3/8", so you'd have to throw down on a layer of 7/16 osb. That would run about $1.00 a square foot. But Im not sure how to keep the ply bead seems tight w/o some way to tack it down.
I think the t& g is the way to go.
good luck
Pete
T-11 isn't 3/4" Where I do my shopping, T-111 is nominal 3/4". There is also a similar ply with a different number that is about 7/16" but I forget the actual thickness.Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Can you tell me the manufacturer of the 3/4" t111 that you use? Ive called around and no one has anything bigger than 5/8". Maybe I can contact the manufacturer and find a dealer in my area. Thx