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If your power tool collection consisted of only a drill, circular saw and palm sander, and someone offered to buy you a portable table saw or a sliding compound miter saw (not considering price) which would be more useful for a fairly serious weekend renovator?
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Dear N.: I noticed no one has answered your post, possibly since there's no clear choice between the tools you've mentioned. To us, it's as if you asked "If you could have only one screwdriver, would it be a flat blade or phillips?".
I'd like to suggest an alternative: A radial arm saw. You can rip to the widths comparable to a portable table saw, and you can cut compound miters with a reasonable degree of accuracy.
My radial arm saw (Sears, circa 1967) stays in the shop ... I keep it in alignment, and re-tweak it if I roll it to a different location. With quality blades, it does a pretty good job. I don't use it that often, since most of my work is in the field, but it's great for "production" work that can be done off-site evenings or weekends.
My portable table saw and slide compound miter saw go to the job sites, and I wouldn't be without BOTH of them ... but then, I NEED both tools in my work. As a DIYer, the not-so-portable radial arm saw would be a good compromise for you. Look for a used one, since there are thousands of them sitting idle in garages and basements.
Good luck, Steve
*I agree. The radial arm saw is a great tool and you can usually pick one up used for $250 to $300. They take up a bit of space but with the right set up and some accessories they can do anything a table saw or sliding compound miter saw can do and a lot of things that they can not do (like raised panels for cabinet doors). They are not, however, truely portable. In addition to my used Sears radial arm I have a Sears contractor's type table saw (less than $150 new - don't let the price fool you - Fine Homebuilding gave it a very favorable rating) and a Mikita 10" chop saw (less than $250 new). I have access to a DeWalt sliding compound miter saw but have yet to need it. In the end, however, the choice really depends on the type of renovation work you do. Lots of ripping favors the table saw. Trim work favors the miter saw.
*N.: The question is, what projects do you have planned? The tool will be determined by that.
*I must agree. If you can only get "One" tool, I'd go with a radial arm saw. Resign yourself to keeping it tweeked up to maintain accuracy, but it's a good compromise. How about a used table saw and a used radial arm? Could get both for the cost of a new Table saw.
*I have been to a few woodworking bankruptcy and general tool auctions lately up here in the great NW where they have not been able to give away older, brand name radial arm saws while the sliding compound miter saws have gone for reasonably good money. Three old sturdy Rockwell saws and and a small Craftsman got narry a bid. Thus if you don't mind the bulk and the necessity of keeping it tuned up, you should be able to a radial arm saw for cheap if you can find one at auction. I could give you the name of the contractor whose saws didn't sell, but the freight from Portland, OR might be more than the cost of a new saw...
*Radial arm saw.......no doubt.I learned to build cabinets with one from an old timer. Stan Matecki. One of the best. Thanks Stan for all you taught me.Respectfuly,Ed. Williams
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Well, to answer the question as posed, having just bought a new DeWalt sliding miter bevel-both-ways saw, and, seeing as how before I owned a table saw I would screw my Skil77 to the underside of a piece of plywood and use it for ripping, I'd go for the slide saw. I am considering getting rid of the radial saw after building cabinets and installing huge crown with that DeWalt...And, I've never enjoyed ripping on a radial; it just won't take the forward pressure.however I can't imagine owning any table tool before owning a cordless drill.... But, all seriousness aside, it's true that used table tools would be the way to go.
*I have been thinking about the same question for some time. I would go for the miter saw. Here's my reason: A portable table saw is not portable, and you still need a table. You still have the same problem if you want to cut a 4x8. So a 'portable' table saw didn't buy you much. A circular saw can do most of the work. But if you want to do some precise work, either a bookcase or a dog house, a miter saw is the only way to go.
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KAC,
How do you rip 4x8 sheet goods on a mitre saw?
Ed. Williams
*A circular saw skillfully used can be used to accomplish most of what a tablesaw is used for, no? I have both and often just rip up boards with my circlesaw because it ends up taking way less time and the results are on spec.the chop box sure is handy though and onthe topic of radial saws, you couldn't pay me to use one...mine is rusting up as I type this...an archaic, slow setting up and dangerous tool to newbies especially. I don't let laborers touch it or my tablesaw...they do enough damage to themselves with hammers, knives and screwdrivers. And on the subject of danger, bungee cords have to be right up there with the most dangerous inventions of man...why last time I saw a crew member reach for one I ran to him and snatched it away like he had picked up a loaded gun about to go off...Don't want to visit another hospital to see a mouthful of stiches and bloody holes where teeth used to reside...somewhat off subject, near the stream,aj
*So I say buy the chop box.
*If you really can only buy ONE, I would have to have the table saw. (You can make a 9 or 10" table saw portable with an axle and a couple of lawnmower wheels) But if I were just starting out, I would budget for one of each. And I'd try to stick with all one sized blade (probably 10") if I were just starting out too. I bought many of my tools used as the opportunity for each arose. So I now have a 9" table saw, a 10" radial arm saw, and a 14" miter box. Saved a lot of money, but then spent as much as I saved on blades that are tool specific.And wait until Adrian gets a load of all the kind remarks about radial arm saws! He's probably got smoke comin' out of his ears right now! But, then again, he drives a F*rd. - jb
*I had to build a Euro style, melamine kitchen three years ago with hand tools; built the boxes with a skilsaw with a masonite base, and an 8' aluminum straightedge that cost about $25. you can make all kinds of guides for a circular saw that give you cabinet shop results for a few bucks.I have a fully equipped cabinetshop, and i still use this setup every week, and couldn't get by without it on site. I have a portable tablesaw basically on permanent loan to a buddy (I keep thinking I'll use it somday, and the job is done with the skilsaw by the time I remember I own the other thing). I swapped my radial arm for two axes and an adze.My vote is for the SCMS, plus a good circular saw and some quality straightedges.
*I've got no beef with a skil saw and straight edge for ripping. I believe less is better when it comes to how many tools you have to drag around.But for ripping, crosscutting, dadoing and mitreing all in one tool, I still have to go with the radial arm saw.Sure it's dangerous. So is driving if you don't know how. But if I just get ONE setup, it's gonna be a radial arm saw.Ed. Williams
*...the truth be told, you could get by pretty well with just your favorite circular saw. (make mine a Skil Mag 77). - jb
*We've had some good input here, but I'll stick with my original recommendation of a radial arm saw.Like many of you, I've done some clever things with a circular saw, usually because the rip width exceeded the capacity of my portable table saw. Even with a radial arm saw, it will be often be necessary to rip wide pieces of plywood with a circular saw.N.Nott describes himself as a "weekend renovator" ... he's gonna have a tough time safely ripping jamb entensions out of 1x4's with a circular saw. More than likely, he will face a mix of rips and crosscuts as he tackles a variety of projects. Hopefully, he will learn the safety do's and dont's (i.e., feed into the rotation of the blade when ripping), and will regognize that while miter saws and table saws remove fingers, radial arm saws can remove entire limbs.Occasionally radially, Steve
*Dear N,Everbody gave nice suggestions, but the question remains, what kind of work are you into most?If its trim work, or siding work, or mostly work involving cross cutting, then a sliding compound saw is great. Hell a powered miter saw can handle this as well.If your into a lot of wood making that requires precision ripping, then get the table saw. Dewalt makes a nice portable table saw.Since you own a circular saw, you really could do most, if not all of your cross cutting with this by setting up some simple homemade fence and table jigs out of 2x lumber. The kind guys use when doing siding jobs.Hence, I'd opt for the table saw. Ripping is easier and more accurate with a table saw than with a circular saw, though again a few homade jigs and you could even do a pretty fair job of ripping with your circular saw; but its hard to rabbet and dado with a circular saw.Radial arm saws are going the way of the dinosaur.Yes, you can rip and cross cut, and miter and rabbet with them, BUT, they are HEAVY to lug around, and if not leveled properly will kick back in a second and can take your hand with it. Ripping on a radial is always an uneasy (and unnerving) task to the beginner. Most portable radials are only 8 inchers and won't cut thruogh a 4X4 and does'nt have the "reach" to cut through wide planks. If the radial arm saw was so great, there would'nt have been such a market for the compound sliding miter saw. I own a radial arm, and use it daily, and yes I like it; but this is not a saw for portability or for someone just learning how to use stationary type tools. Stay away from the radial arm saw. By the way, you would be better off to get a cordless drill (they do wonders!) and a good orbital action jigsaw (Bosch and Milwauki both make a great one for $150 -$170). The jigsaw will enable you to cut curves in wood. None of the other tools mentioned can do this. As far as stationary type tools go. The 2 best to start out with are the table saw and a bandsaw.Experience and jigs will help you avoid buying a lot of expensive tools that you really don't need at this time.
*Davo - there you go, giving well thought out, good, solid advice, then you end with "...help you avoid buying a lot of expensive tools..." . Who the heck wants to AVOID that? - jb
*A great deal depends on your eye-hand coordination and your experience. If it is not as good as you would like, go stationary. However, if you have good coordination and your are not into furniture building, it is amazing what can be done with a good sidewinder, a set a blades and either homemade or purchased jigs. I have a fireplace with 1/4" oak veneer mitered this way with a Milwaukee saw. It was done by a master carpenter, but it is virtually perfect. I find rabbits and dados are done easily with a router. If your are going to make some bookcases, or other items requiring long cuts, consider buying the lumber from a cabinet shop ready cut to width. I am not sure that you can't do a better job with a sidewinder and a straight edge ripping long pieces than you might do with a portable - the fences are short, and it is difficult to get a constant feed rate. It seems to me than many stationary tools are such good buys used because they have hardly been used. However, if I had the room and could buy one stationary tool, it would be a panel saw - probably about $4,000. Safer, easier on the back, and probably more accurate than trying to push across a table and a constant rate and pressure.Good luckDennis
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If your power tool collection consisted of only a drill, circular saw and palm sander, and someone offered to buy you a portable table saw or a sliding compound miter saw (not considering price) which would be more useful for a fairly serious weekend renovator?