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I am planning on pouring aprox 300 ft of 4″ by 6″ curbs. What kind of base should I have? How far apart should the pegs be? Any info will be greatly apreciated!!!!!!!
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Hi Gord,
Before we get too far, maybe you could tell me where you're located so that I can determine if frost would be a problem and also what is the purpose for this curb, to protect from cars or lawnmowers?
Probably be less expensive and time consuming to use pre-cast curbs for the job though.
Gabe
*I'll second Gabe on the precast. However, it sure is easy to push the mixer around vs. setting precast. Do you have a loader?-Rob
*Pegs???????????
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HI Gabe . I live in the Mother of all frost zones Manitoba Canada. Appox 200 ft will be for driveway & the other 100 ft for landscaping.Pre-cast is not an option that I like too much especially for the landscaping. I'm putting interlocking stone in & around here if you don't tie them in good they spread out alot.I plan on using a concrete truck for the whole job. I' ve yet to put my lawn in so I don't have to worry about ruts or anything like that.All I need is a nice day & some friendly advice.Thank you for taking the time to respond so promptly.Rgds Gord
*Thanks for the imput.Rgds GORD
*Maybe I should have said STAKES MY BLUNDER When you pour concrete you have to support the forms with something????What are your sugestions.Any are welcome as long as they deal with the subject at hand. Rgds Gord
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Good afternoon Gord,
Ah yes, Winterpeg, Manitoba, land of the brave.
Don't worry about frost protection, there isn't any good enough or deep enough.
The secret is the base, crushed stone with a weeper to make absolutely certain that water does not gather and pond.
You may want to consider two distinct types of curbs.
The first is the standard car/parking lot type. Cast with 2 pieces of 3/4" poly tube to allow for the pins.
The second is shaped with a step to allow the wheel of the lawnmower ( ya know that thing that is unemployed all winter in the garage) to run over it so it cuts the grass clean without the use of an edger.
Grass side is 4" deep MINIMUM and 4" wide, then rises 4" and another 4" wide. It looks like a standard curb with the top inside quarter section removed along the lenght.
You set the curb so that the grass side is flush with the finished ground and that way the landscaped or planting side is at least another 4" above.
When you cast them in place, make sure that the sections are divided with expansion joint material (black joe) every 6 ft. add 2 rebars of 1/2" along the lenght. Make sure your concrete has air added for those Manitoba freeze dry cycles.
Anyway, this is one idea,
Gabe
*Forgot someting Gord,depending on the type of forming material you are using, if you are doing straight and narrow, 2 by whatever material, a stake every 4 to 6 feet is fine, (if 6" wide every 6 ft, if 8" wide every 4 ft.)
*After lookong at a map to fix were you're at I 've to agree with Gabe on his offering. Of course the last curbs I pioured were at Dullas Airport(4 miles) and I didn't use any forms.......know how???
*Hi BillA curb & gutter machine on track.Gabe
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Gabe, read your post with interest. How about a bit more detail on the "weeper" you mentioned?
I'll soon be doing something much like Gord's project, but in southern Idaho.
PJ
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got it Gabe we call them slip former here and man can you pour some curb with those things.
*Hi Peter,I've got a little trouble seeing the type of frost problems that Gord would have to deal with ever occuring in southern Idaho.One of the critical requirements for frost lifting curbs, sidewalks or foundations is water and long periods of sub-zero weather.Can't do anything about the sub-zero part but we can do something about the water.If your founded on a dry, properly drained base, frost will not be able to do much damage.You can sometimes get away with less excavation to get below the frost lines by either putting rigid insulation at the base or by taking steps to ensure drainage under all conditions.If you picture a trench 2 ft. deep, running the length of your project and with a gentle slope to allow natural drainage, by installing a standard 4" drainage pipe in a bed of crushed stone you virtually guarantee that the flow of water would be effective.Then you embed the curbing into the stone along your project.Hopes this helps.Gabe
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I am planning on pouring aprox 300 ft of 4" by 6" curbs. What kind of base should I have? How far apart should the pegs be? Any info will be greatly apreciated!!!!!!!