Quick one. Should I be running power to the switch or the light fixture. Don’t know if one is “better” or more “legal”. Thoughts? Opinions?
Ted
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Replies
Both good, both legal. Whatever is easiest. If you really want to nit pick, I'd guess you would try to reduce the overall length of wire the current has to travel, but even if you are running 600W and you run 20 extra feet of #14, who cares?
The only other consideration would be box fill. They make pancake boxes for hanging ceiling fans and such that only have enough volume for a single #14 romes (6 cu in). In that case you cannot run power to that box, you have to go to the switch box.
I frequently wire both ways though, whichever is easiest in the circuit.
MERC.
I've done it both ways. I don't know if one is better. If it's easier to get the power to the switch box I'll put it there and run a loop to the light.If it's easier to get power to the light box, like in an open attic, I'll put it there.
If it's new work I always put it in the light box and drop a switch loop.
Thats my $.02, sure some else will chime in.
I like going to the switch box. It's easier to troubleshoot and/or add on to later and gives more flexibilty when running multiple switches in the same box.
There are slight advantages of running the power to the switch box, but it usually works out that it's more convenient to run it to the fixture box. Either is legal, provided you do things right. Running power to the fixture box is a little trickier to get legal, but not much.
My preference if there's any chance you will have a ceiling fan installed eventually is to run 3 conductor from the switch to box so there is both a switched and constant hot wire at the fixture. This way, if needed the switch can control the light and the fan can be on a pull chain and they won't need a special fan with electronic controls. I always do this in bedrooms especially.
Hope this helps. Rich.
I prefer running the power to the fixture box, and I wire pretty much all my work that way unless there is a compelling reason not to do so (as is sometimes the case in renovation). It's easier for me to run it that way in new work; very straightforward and uncomplicated--all switch boxes contain only the switch leg, and the fixture box has a max of 3 pair in it: power in, power out, and switch leg. I use 2¼" deep octo boxes for all fixtures; 2½ Gems for recepticles and switches.
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
One very slight advantage to running power to the box is that if you want to install X-10 switches in the future they need a neutral.
power comes in on black wire, other than that doesn matter except if you hook a light in front of the switch it will not turn off.
My practice is to have one method and stick to it. So I don't have to label as many wires and when I come back later, I know what is what.
Personally, I run power to the switch in through the bottom of the box. Romex to the light goes out the top. Even if it then does a 180, I always do that so when I look in a switch box, bottom is always power in. Top is always switched power out to the light.
And, if passing power through, in on bottom left, out on bottom right. Left to right, just like reading a book. Even if it means another 6 inches of romex. After the sheetrock goes up and a few months go by, what was obvious becomes unclear. Consistency helps that a lot.
And so forth. Triple switch box? Decide which fixture is wired through which switch and bring that romex in top left, top center, and top right. Again, no thinking, no head scratching once the rock is up. Just installing switches, boom, boom, boom down the line.