Is it possible to purchase a pre-hung door that wasn’t hung properly?
I’ve a Stanley exterior door (for 2×6 framing) that defies my measurements of plumb, straight and level. I already nailed the brick molding in place like I have several other doors before but when I step inside it appears things are all like those Black Hills attractions where the balls roll uphill, etc. The worst condition is that the door doesn’t fit into the same plane as the jamb. (Doesn’t shut against the weatherstrip in the upper right corner.)
All looks well on the brick molding side or outside. The molding is in the plane of the wall and it fits in tight against the wall. All is plumb and level and straight.
No amount of ajustment on the inside (jambs) can correct the problem.
Replies
Oh yeah. I have two like that. I finally resorted to prying back the weather strip and packing it out with rolled up papertowels as a tapered dowel of sorts..so far so good.
I think the steel can allow the foam filler to deflect from plane..maybe storage or in manufacturing..and I can't tell whats up before actually INSTALLING the damm things.
If you find a good fix, let us know.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
New or old work?
I'd forget about the brick mould fit on the outside. I'd not even think of plumbing and leveling a unit by the casing.
Reference the jamb only. Maybe you did that, sorry but I know not if you're in the trades. The way they throw those things together screams ............."off".
If I were sure it wasn't set crossleged , one side of the opening is out of plane with the other and the door was set using the BM. I would look at the oneside mortice and hinge set. Those wopperjawed would cock the door. If those were all even, I'd pull the weatherstrip (if crushable, not magnetic) and adjust the margin to the stop. Even margin on the fixed stop might be the best you can do. And once you re insert the WS, should crush pretty even.
Unless the door/jamb is warped (bent) , I can't think of another cause with an adjustment. You can't quit yet. If bogus door unit, take it back and chew the #### out of them. If you don't/can't return the unit, you should be able to make it work.
Fill your profile out if you get a chance. Even with a bunch of lies, it gives an idea of your location and experience which helps out with answers.
Welcome to BT.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I thought it was only me who had problems like this.
Are you sure the door itself is planar? Could be warped at that corner.
I know it is frustrating and you probably don't want to look at it again, but is the lower left corner of the brick mold nailed over a lump in the sheathing and causing this condition ( check brick mold outside for straightness ).
Hinges set even depth - lower hinge set too deep ( too far forward - toward the exterior of the house ) could also cause this.
Just a couple thoughts.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
You want the door to sit correctly against the weather strip so at times I need to adjust the jambs in & out. The brickmold sitting tight to the sheathing is nice but it rarely is like that after I am done adjusting the door.
Jambs could be warped. Door could be warped. Wall could out of alignment. Stone under the sill.... Any combination of the above of more.
What does this situation in my life ask of me?
Is it possible to purchase a pre-hung door that wasn't hung properly?
Absolutely.
About one out of five if they were done at the plant on a Monday or Friday afternoon!!!!
To check if it is cross legged. Put a string from top right corner to bottom left corner of the inside jamb. Then put another string from the topleft corner to the bottom right corner. Make sure that the string is touching the jamb at all attachment points.
Now, where the strings intersect in the middle they should be touching. If there is a gap, then you need to adjust the jamb to get the strings to touch. If one string is causing the other to flex out then you need to adjust the jamb so that the string are just touching with little deflection.
If it is the door use a straight edge or pull a string from the top edge to the bottom to see if there is any gap.
J.P.
Stanley seems to have a jig thats off on its hinges. I've had to adjust the inset of the hinge on the last few doors.
Another trick we've learned is to toss the level and set the door to fit the gaps. this works better on hollow core crap I've been getting from the box stores lately.