Does anyone have any favorite, quick ways to pre-prime cedar shingles….not theoretical ones mind you, but ones that work well?
I’m thinking maybe a trash can partway filled with thinned primer might work. You know, grab the shingle by the thin end, dunk it, beat it against the sides of the trash can a few times to get most of the liquid off and then……what? Stack ’em on edge? Hang ’em on a clothesline?
That’s really all that has occurred to me so far. Anyone else got a better mousetrap?
Thanks,
Mike
Replies
I've seen this done.......
Dip the shingles then fling like a frizbee against a tarp that will protect the ground from the stain.
Have one end of the tarp sling between two trees.
Heck make a game out if it with the kids
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Thanks Guys. Gettin' the kids involved........hmmmmmmm.
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Mike ... i can buy R&R's for $100/box
i can buy factory primed R&R's for $120/box
no way can i prime them for $20/box
Buy'm that way from Maibec
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Mike-
If you use the search words 'shingle stain' in the advanced search function in the upperleft corner of the screen you'll get a slew of threads dealing with various processes folks have used.
Enough so you'll need a pot of coffee and that ain't for the stain.
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Thanks man. I tried a bunch of different keywords before posting, but didn't come across what I was looking for. I'll give it another go.
When you mentioned the subject I recalled the reading of such info from years back.
I believe there might be one or two particular threads that would carry the bulk of the data and would probably have the reference of shingles stain or similar in the subject title.
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First buy your paint or stain in bulk,5 gallon bucket is good. My wife and I would dip the shingles in the bucket use a brush to smooth it out, and then hang them up on a clothes line. By doing this you coat both sides quickly. Make sur you mix the paint to ensure consistancy.
Anyone else got a better mousetrap?
How about just buying them in a pre-primed format? ;)
We use rain gutters fastened back to back with a wood rail to divide them. A line of masons string at the rail also helps hold the shingles in place on windy days.
They are sloped to an empty 5 gallon pail. My wife dips the shingles in a full 5 gallon pail of stain, sets them in the gutters, the rest of the stain that runs off the shingles is recovered in the empty pails. Four gutters makes two of these units. We can stain one box of shingles in the four gutters. We recover quite a bit of stain that runs off the shingles.
It's a simple set up, if you need a picture I could get one. We have stained about 56 of 64 cases of r&r's
What does r&r stand for? how many cases in a square?
R&R means "rebutted and re-jointed". That is, the shingles are retrimmed on all four sides so that all corners are 90 degrees.
I don't understand the process exactly, but I'm assuming that shingles are typically cut green, and that's why the corners aren't exactly square by the time you unbundle them. I'm also assuming that R&R shingles are kiln dried and then go through the resawing process.
By "case", I think arrowpov is simply referring to a cardboard box. Many higher-quality shingle products come in boxes as opposed to bundles.
The amount of squares you'll cover with a box depends on the exposure you opt for.
Typicly 4 to a sq at 5" exposure
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rebutted and resquared
two cases would be a square at 7" exposure
Nice technique. Thanks.
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How long do you need to let the shingles air out before you can handle them after staining?
I have been using penofin it does not dry real fast. I usually put them back in the box after 8 to 24 hours. The penofin is mostly oil and it does not get splotchy if the shingles are against each other.
If you're happy with the R&R Maibec's, which are 3/8 at the butt, then I'd go pre-stained. The economics speak for themselves. I found some locally milled R&R's that were 7/16 and better quality, so I set up a gutter + 5gal bucket + closeline operation to apply a 50-50 mix of Cabot weathering stain and bleaching oil. Brush them down in the gutter or the finish may crack and will be too thick. Hang them up for 24 hrs.
If your labor is free then this is the way to go. My wife dipped most of the 22 sq I used on my project (about 12,000 shingles).
Edited 5/31/2007 11:31 pm ET by shearwater
Edited 5/31/2007 11:34 pm ET by shearwater
Here's the shingle dipping factory...
View Image
Edited 5/31/2007 11:59 pm ET by shearwater
I would really appreciate help with the Original Poster's question: does anyone have a practical efficient approach to paint-priming cedar shingles? I need pictures, a youtube video or at least a detailed description of what worked well for you. Thanks. A variety of approaches and techniques is welcome.
Never dip-painted shingles, but have done a few other things. It's imporant to set up a decent drain area. I arranged a sloped area, covered with plastic, draining into a trough, to catch the drips and recycle the primer.
Then you need a good rack area for final drying. It won't work to just prop them all up against the wall.