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What is your prefered exterior primer. I currently use Benjamin Moore’s “MooreWhite” (exterior oil based wood primer). It seems to never dry and leaves a thick mealy sort of coating that I can scratch off with my finger nail even weeks after its applied. It holds up well when applied to dry wood and painted over but I can’t imagine using it to pre-prime trim or siding because it would scrape off too easily durring installation.
So what product do you use when pre-priming.
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Replies
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I use the same primer Teddyolboy but don't have any problems with it. I suspect that you are putting it on too thick, that primer needs to be thinned. Tech data says to apply @ 3.7 mils yielding 500sq ft/gal.
Try here for more info
*The reason there are so many different types and styles of primer on the market is because each situation requires a primer suited for that particular purpose. The best all around, all purpose primer, IMHO, is Zinsser brand Buslleye 1-2-3. It is not the best primer for all applications, though. Do some research on primers, and find out which type of primer is best suited for your particular application. James
*Thanx for the link Qtrmeg. I forgot they changed the lable and name. How much do you thin it? 10%? 25%? I'm having the customer prime 200 lf of cedar siding cause he didn't get primed like I told him to.
*James, I have had terrible luck with Zins 123, mostly with adhesion of the topcoats, but also tried it for its ability to bond to a glossy surface and was less than impressed. (I mentioned this in another post, "why does it say it will bond to any surface yet it doesn't stick to the side of the can?)Ted, I guess having the customer exchange the siding isn't an option? The upcharge for primed for 200 ft is less than he would pay for a gallon of paint.Anyway, thinning is hard to describe in words, you have to feel it. You want to thin it so that it won't drag and will level out, but not so much that you defeat the prevention of tannin bleed. I think you should aim for 10 % but work your way up, it is a lot easier to add thinner than remove it.
*we've had a lot of good results with (((Zinsser brand Buslleye 1-2-3.)) just like james..lately we've been using Pratt&Lamberts #8 primeras a base for ur 100 % acrylic finish...good application, drying, hardness, compatability..
*Don't put 123 in your tool kit Mike, trust me.
*I use Zinser 123 as a stain stopper and I'll prime drywall or plaster with it if I don't have PVA on hand. As for adhesion to hard surfaces I'm with Qtrmeg. I used it once to prime cheap paneling (yes, I scuffed it first) and it didn't hold. I ended up removing the paneling and repairing the walls. For exterior purposes I'm of the old school - oil based everything. BTW Kilz is no good for out doors. It peels. I guess because it dries too fast. Just a side note.
*If you are priming paneling, use an oil based primer. The laquers, varnishes, and paper coatings on the paneling do not take the latex primers well at all. Same goes for stained interior or exterior doors. Oil based primer, then an enamel paint, whether oil or acrylic. As for the Zinsser, all I can say is you ain't doing something right. EVERY primer has its intended uses, and when used for OTHER than its intended uses, or used in any other manner than the manufacturer's recommendations, you are gonna have trouble. I have never had anything but great results when using this product. I follow the recommendations on types of surfaces, and most importantly, I prep the surface correctly. Not every surface is prepped the same. If you have not had success with it, I suggest that you avoid it and use whatever works best for you.James
*James -i OTHER than its intended uses, or used in any other manner than the manufacturer's recommendations, You're right on about using oil based primer on paneling. It was the job described above that taught me that. And Zinser 1-2-3 is a good product in many applications. BUT...Read the back of the can. It states that it bonds well to hard glossy surfaces and recomends scuff sanding to assure a good bond. I sanded every bit of shine off of that paneling and the Zinsser 1-2-3 did not stick. What more can I say?
*Must have been all that Lemon Pledge soaked into the paneling over the years.
*Ralph, There's probably a lot more truth to that than we realize. Sam
*No lemon pledge. The paneling was that plastic coated masonite crap. It was light green with gold and silver plaid sort of patern printed on it. Man, what a flashback from a bad trip. They used it through out the house. Must have got it for $1 a panel or free or something.
*Teddy:I had the same experience with MooreWhite, and thinning it didn't help. I got a new can which worked fine. I also had the same experience with another brand. Guy at the paint store said he thinks maybe the paint was frozen at some point before sale. Take your can back and get another one.
*My experience with Zin 123 was when it first came out, maybe they have improved it since then. The reason I won't use it again is that on one job the top coat "fish-eyed" and I can't say that I was impressed in the least.I could list a few other "impressions" I have but I will not use a product that has proven to have adhesion issues, I have enough problems to worry about.
*The only adhesion problems was with hard glossy surfaces, even when well scuffed. For stain sealing and drywall/plaster primer it works great. Thats the only reason I keep it around.BTW Zinsser's "odorless" oil primer isn't completey odorless but it's a lot more bearable than Kilz. If you have to use oil primer indoors it's the way to go.
*My favorite for exterior work is Cabot's Problem Solver Oil based primer .......had good luck with it. I think many problems are due to surface prep. On new work I sand surfaces with 60 or 80 grit on a random orbit sander to get rid of mill glaze.