Forgive the pretty basic question but…
I’m going to sub out the drywall work on an addition but i’d like to do the painting myself. Question, what’s the recommended practice/steps, for example
prime w/latex primer –> sand –> paint final latex?
Paint w/latext –> paint final latex?
Do i need a primer coat over drywall? do i need to sand? Do folks typically spray or roll?
Thanks.
Replies
First thing is get your broom, shop vac, and wet mop out in that order to keep the dust from getting all over. Then prime and two coats of top quality latex. Use a pole sander and a light sand between coats. Oh almost forgot; the first thing you do is bring your wife to the paint store, you would like to do the job once!
Apply two coats of USG "Sheetrock First Coat" primer and lightly sand after the first coat then apply one coat of any good quality paint. This is better than one coat of primer and two coats of paint. Don't take the dust off before priming..it does not help as it only makes matters worse.
>> Don't take the dust off before priming..it
does not help as it only makes matters worse.
Somebody will ask you to explain that one, I may as well be that somebody.
Applying primer/paint to drywall..you are applying them on two different types of surfaces...the compound and the drywall facepaper. The object is to get one type of surface, that's why skimming the entire drywall eliminates photographing (the variance of the primer/paint on two different types of surfaces when viewed from an angle). Leaving the dust on helps to make the drywall facepaper more like the compound and the "Sheetrock First Coat" has microscopic compound in it to even out the surfaces. Taking the dust off does not do anything..it only makes photographing worse.
How about using a thinned washcoat of light compound over the entire SR as desribed in the drywall book by Ferguson. Will the 2 coats of primer make things uniform between the spackled spots (holes and seams) and the paper areas? thanks.
How about using a thinned washcoat of light compound over the entire SR
That's called Level 5 finish..the best one!
How about using a thinned washcoat of light compound over the entire SR
How do you "make" the wash coat and how is it applied?
Thin the joint compound with water, use the lightweight, to a consistency that will just stay on a paint roller, 1/2" nap is good. Then just roll it on the drywall like you would paint. If you have any end roller marks then just sand it after it dries with a sanding pole.
I guess you know that very few trades people understand what you are talking about or even have ever heard about it .
Tim Mooney
I've heard of it. Can I be the bully that steps on toes and says that product is...er ... man. I hate tact. There's better stuff. Back to the cliches. You get what you pay for."If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
Theres several materials to do the job also. Im not trying to take anything away , just to add that most people dont know . Its 35 years late getting here .
Tim Mooney
Yes must trades don't know that..neither do most painters. They buy the cheapest primer, water it down and then blame everything on the drywaller.
Light, paint and drywall..they all have to be good to get a good job!
"Sheetrock First Coat"
last year I has a coupla old union drywallers ... actually one drywaller and one plaster ... come in and save a botched drywall job ...
They highly recommended that product.
Said there's one guy working out of their hall that is the absolute worst finisher ...
but when the job is hit with First Coat ...
to quote ...
"even his sh!t look presentable".
Haven't had a big fresh drywall job yet to try it on ... but I've already told my painter that's what we're gonna do.
now that I think of it .... I have a small amount of drywall I'll be hanging/finishing myself ... might make for a good test.
Jeff
Yo Buck,
USG has a newer product called "Tuff-Hide". You need a special sprayer with a big pump cause it's thicker than mollases. I've seen it used once, on a ceiling just leave it as it is cause it looks like paint. it hides all the photographing..I have never seen anything better. It goes for about $47.00/5 gallon pail and it's about 3 mil thick. It's negates all photographing, drywall/spackle absorbtion, etc.
These and the other products metntioned almost act like a skim coat over the entire drywall and the "Tuff-Hide" does it the best...looks like plaster when done.
Thanks ... will have to check it out ..
run the info past my painter.
Jeff
Ditto on the "Sheetrock First Coat"
I've used both this stuff and a primer that has a vinyl in it (PVA?). The First Coat is more like thinned drywall compound, the PVA works OK, but as you are applying it, if it's hot or dry, little clumps of the stuff dries on the roller and makes "boogers" on the finish. Doesn't happen with First Coat.
I havent read the thread complete , but it depends on what you want. Not enough information.
Ok I read it . Zano is setting you up for a smooth wall and tis good information if thats what you want. If you are getting a textured wall , its probably over kill.
Tim Mooney
Edited 10/9/2004 11:55 pm ET by Tim Mooney
Smooth finish is what i'm after...sorry for not being more specific. So sound like
primer --> lightly sand --> primer --> paint
What if there are some areas that aren't finished (by the drywall guys) as well as they need to be when will this show up...i.e. after the first primer coat, before the primer coat, ...?
>> When will this show up...?
As soon as the check clears. <g>
I spent a couple_three years, in the early eighties, doing nothing but "point-up" on luxury high-rise condominiums. All the ceilings were concrete with a popcorn texture and the guys doing the wipe down did a half-@ssed job. Had to skim a foot down from the ceiling all around. Skimmed all the flats, all the buts, every screw, every angle (both sides), and every corner bead. Eight hours, easy for a two bedroom apt.
Normally after the first coat of primar is applied is when the defects become visable to the untrained eye. The USG primer or the builders coat is a thick solution to also mask small inperfections, plus prime the wall. PVA primer is a primer only.
To answer your question you can mark such spots after priming and fix them and reprime.
Tim Mooney
so if these are noticed after the first prime coat..who typically does the fixing? I'm guessing the painters. Would it make sense to hold back any of the money until the painters approve the drywall job?
Normally the job is inspected the day of completion and the taping crew is paid . If there are questions they should be settled then when the taping crew is available to fix the problems.
If the painter has problems with the job , those problems should be noted before its painted.
Its not common practice to hold money till another application is done over it .
Tim Mooney
Tim:
Thanks. That's what i needed to know...
We use USG First Coat. This stuff is great. First though make sure the
finish is smooth. I shine a light on the walls/ceiling. Hold a light in your left hand, a sander in yer right. A hand sander with sanding screen in it..I use 120 grit.
Inspect every joint,screwhole and corner. Feather all the edges but dont
hollow out the centers.
I do a quick wipe of the walls and ceiling, cut in around the corners
and outlet/switch boxes. Then put a coat of "First Coat". I dont thin it
at all. It is thick like pancake batter.
Dont expect the drywall finishers to do a perfect job. Let them do
there work then check it. You might be able to pay one of the sander
guys to go back over it...or do it yourself. If you do it yourself then you have no legal recourse. But all they have to do is get it to look good from distance of 6 feet I think to be concidered "Professional".
Definitely use a primer. And a good quality one at that. Otherwise, you will get "flashing" or "photographing" as has been mentioned elsewhere in this thread. Latex is fine, no need for oil. Give the walls a quick swipe with a broom or a towel to remove excess dust before priming. I haven't found any difference between drywall primers and general-purpose primers other than price. It's not necessary to sand after the primer coat.
If I wanted extra insurance of a good job, I would be more inclined to use 2 coats of primer and 1 top coat rather than the other way around. Primers can be tinted to the approximate color of the top coat usually making a second coat unneccessary.
As for spraying vs rollering: I think you've got to have a very large area to paint before the setup needed for spraying is justified.
If possible, paint before the trim (casing, baseboard, etc.) goes on. It makes for a neater job. Be prepared for a little touch-up afterwards.
-Don
I have used USGs "First Coat" primer, and a competing product made by Sherwin Williams called "Builders Solution."
I use the "Builders Solution" now, even though it costs a little more, because S-W will tint it for me, to get as close as we can to the wall and ceiling colors.
My supplier of the USG product won't tint it.
I too use BUilders Solution, i like the primer alot. More so then the PrepRite HiBuild (promar hi build) SW calls is a surfacer but it fills, evens out and primes SR and compound well.
For new drywall skimmed or unskimmed its provides a solid primed base. Its tintable for all white based colors and goes on thick.
Even with a tinted primer id still go 2 coats of paint for a fresh job.