Prepairing walls for stone vaneer??
The foyer of our church walls are currently traditional studed walls with 1/4″ paneling. They want to install stone vaneer over it to make it more attractive. This is an interior wall.
What Should be applied to or over the wall before the stone is? The walls are sitting on a concrete slab.
thanks
Replies
My installer puts a scratch coat over expanded metal lath, over black tar paper. That's for exterior application, but I would think the same would work inside.
Then he just uses cement mortar to apply the veneer (a lightweight "cultured stone"), working from the top down.
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Edited 2/1/2009 3:11 pm by Huck
Thanks that will help. We are not using the cultured stone, but the real stuff, So i am assuming we will have to install it from the bottom up.
1/2" plywood and metal lathe. Installer should install the lathe and necessary coats of mortar.
Make sure the floor underneath will hold the wieght of the new "real stuff" stone if it comes out into the room at all
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116046.3 in reply to 116046.2
" We are not using the cultured stone, but the real stuff, So i am assuming we will have to install it from the bottom up."
You could use a sky hook and install it from the top down but it is hard go get the mortar joints to hold.
re. the wall, since it is real stone, it is free standing and only needs to be tied to the studs to keep it from wabbling when kids lean/sit on it.
I'd just use brick ties and tie it to the studs. I'd use felt to separate the drywall from the mortar just for wicking of moisture reasons, etc.
You could use a sky hook and install it from the top down
Could you show a picture of this sky hook? Or is in the shop with the box of toe nails?
Edited 2/1/2009 7:27 pm ET by frammer52
I've never been able to get a good pict of the sky hook. Every time I set it up the battery on the camera dies.
Re. storage, I keep it at the shop next to the joist stretcher.
Man I wish I had one of those. Everytime I go to the store they are out!
Could you show a picture of this sky hook? Or is in the shop with the box of toe nails?
Years ago, I worked for the electric company in the engineering department. Went out on a call with one of the head guys one day right after I started. The lady of the house wanted the "ugly" wires in front of her house replaced with "invisible" wire. The guy I was with told her "Ma'am, we've got a big roll of that invisible wire in the warehouse, but we can't remember where we put it. As soon as we find it, we'll bring some over". He tipped his hat and we left.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
It's fun when people ask dumb questions to give innane responses.
It's fun when people ask dumb questions to give innane responses.
I had one customer, a wealthy Iranian woman, who used to hire me for handyman work, complain about my price, and then always finagle some extra freebies when I was there. You know, the check is already made out, and they ask for one more small thing they forgot to mention... so you do it to get the check and get out of there.
Her garage door opener wouldn't work, she said it was broke. When she left to go back in the house, I checked the sensor, and it was kicked out of alignment. So I re-aligned it, and charged her $75. When she asked what was wrong with it, I said "It was broke - and I fixed it."
She just looked puzzled, and went in and wrote me a check.
Of course next time she called me, because she locked herself out of the house, I crawled in the window and opened her door for free.View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
I fixed one of those GD openners by plugging the cord in!
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I was working with another carp one time when a lady asked him why do you put that whatever there like that. She had been a pest all day, and he off and told her, "That is just there to make idiots ask stupid questions" and kept right on nailing.My mouth fell open at how rude he was, I looked at her and shrugged, and she left. Later, it seemed funny, but at the time I was more shocked than she was.
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Yeah, I have that same problem with all those post holes I have stacked up out by the shop. I do stub my toe and trip over them every now and then, but never can find one when I need it.
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The wall will be about 8ft. I dont know what the wall is tied into. The building is a Butler Building, with studded partition walls in between. This Stone vaneer will be tied intto a partition wall. The slab is 4", I think
The slab is 4", I think
I would go with cultured stone, or else you might want to add a footing. Maybe at the bare minimum at least have an engineer look at it and describe what you're planning on doing.
View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Edited 2/2/2009 12:09 pm by Huck
Thanks, I will look at the prints of the building to see how thick it is for sure. The slab has been there for about 35years, so its plenty cured.
Do you think this new wall might cause the slab to crack
uuhhhhhh yeh!
That kind of point load on a slab with little rebar right there if the soil under is not well compacted first or has washed away can un-cure it pretty quick.
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any issues with liability being in a public place ? how high you going with it ?
Since this is real stone, if the floor will carry the weight, then use a waterproofing membrane (asphalt impregnated felt, aka tar paper) over the existing paneling. Or, strip down the paneling and replace with durock or similar.
Real stone is fastened to the wall with masonry ties leaving an airspace. Cultured stone can be supported with just lath fastened up to the wall, it also weighs less than 1/10 what real stone does.
I wonder if the airspace would be necessary for an interior wall, but my concerns go to load capacity of the slab and to those ties. This wall will definitely need to be tied with ties to studs. I can picture some rugrats trying to climb the wall and pulling the whole thing down on the members gathered nearby
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wonder if the airspace would be necessary for an interior wall, but my concerns go to load capacity of the slab and to those ties
Wondered the same things, too. Went with tried-and-true (wonder if that ought to be in the obsolete expressions thread) for several reasons.
Brevity for one. Improbability of getting a mason to build one any other way. Nagging wonder about this thermal mass inside getting out of sync with the rest of the structure (it is a church, which can have big swings in use and conditions, and requirements for open doors and the like).
My great fear about bearing surfaces is that this could be on a wooden floor, followed by a thin slab.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Stone VENEER
Is this the stuff that is sawed into 1 1/2 - 2" thickness?
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