I’m rebuilding my roof following H. Ike and am using 1 X 8 redwood for the fascia. I used redwood last year for some exterior trim and loved the ease of working with it. However, last year’s work is now having a lot of staining bleeding through. I had primed both sides with SW A-100 latex stain blocker and then two coats of their best exterior latex paint. I was warned that I should use their alkyd primer stain blocker but found it was incredibly difficult to put on with a brush.
Is there a way to thin the alkyd primer to make it easier to put on without ruining its stainblocking or drying ability? Or perhaps a different product other than SW as a primer?
Replies
Dark redwood with loads of tannin requires an oil primer in my experience. The water in Latex products draws the tannin to the surface. Moorewear Busan was my 1st choice-now gone. I now use Cabot Problem-Solver, Benj.-moore oil, Cover-Stain in a pinch- any stainblocking oil-base primer should work. Really rich redwood (luan also) will bleed through 10 coats of latex. Add penetrol or some turp./thinner to ease brushing. I usually use a small roller or spray and back-brush (quicker).
Thanks. I was thinking of penetrol but didn't know if I could use it for exterior stuff. Rolling then brushing sounds a lot easier.
I've used Penetrol in exterior oil paints with no problem- while the website mentions interior use, it has been sold for exterior and marine use for years- many painters use it to lubricate paints for airless spraying. Too much will slow drying somewhat (can be good in some conditions) and probably soften the finish- though not an issue for a primer which is mostly absorbed. Good luck.
You got me thinking, and I found this :(penetrol discussion)
http://www.painterforum.com/yabbse/index.php?topic=2438.0
Thanks. I've used XIM's latex extender quite a bit as most of my trim was put up when the outside temp was near 100. I'll look for their oil based product.
After I put on the oil stain blocker, how long should I wait till the first coat of latex? I want to avoid a soft, gooey finish as I don't want the gutters to tear the paint off as they contract and expand against the fascia.
I'm using SW duralast gloss latex as the last coat and am applying at about 70-80 degrees with high humidities (fall is non-existent down here and winter starts about mid-December). Maybe I should just go with oil for a top coat?
This is all crazy I know. I'm trying to piece my roof back together in the evenings and during a few days I can take off as I'm alone with two young kids. The insurance deductible is a killer so some roofer friends of mine and I are going to shingle it once I get the facia and drip edge on (I'm paying someone to tear off the old shingles and paper the roof for me). Right now I'm hoping my 12 tubes of asphalt caulk hold things together a little while longer.
We used Smith's Epoxy Sealer (sometimes called Restore It) as a redwood sealer with good results. If you are in Calif., not sure where else it is stocked.
John