proper glue for laminateing sheetrock
I have bad sheetrock walls & wish to laminate tmem with 3/8 sheetrock. I feel the proper way is to glue & screw. I would like to hear opinions on the proper installation and the glue to use.
I have bad sheetrock walls & wish to laminate tmem with 3/8 sheetrock. I feel the proper way is to glue & screw. I would like to hear opinions on the proper installation and the glue to use.
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Replies
Regular carpenters glue. Might thin it just a very litttle with water. Pour it in a paint roller tray and roll it on.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Thanks for your input. I would never thought of carpenters glue.
Get the large tubes of drywall adhesive from almost any of the large box home centers. The trick is to put a bead of adhesive about 2" from the edge as any closer and it might squeeze out from between the sheets during install. Use long screws and try to hit studs. If you can't hit studs get a box of laminating screws(they have aggressive threads like a wood screw but are thicker, box store as well or a drywall supply house) and you don't have to hit any studs. Try putting them in at a slight angle as they seem to bite better and will sink so you can finish them easily. Also I would suggest 1/2" sheetrock over 3/8" for a couple of reasons.
#1 The extra thickness allows the factory edge to be a little deeper and makes the finishing easier
#2 The extra depth also eliminates the humps that most walls laminated in 1/4 or 3/8 seem to have
#3 Pricing (at least in my area) is better on 1/2"
#4 1/2 will bridge cracks and damaged areas easier and will give you a better finished product
Hope my 2cents is useful
Thank you
Your 2 cents is worth a nickel. Your info was very enlightening.
Just curious, what exactly do you mean by "bad sheetrock"? I ask because someone here may know an easier solution.
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Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.net
See some of my work at AWorkOfWood.com
The sheetrock had many coats of wallpaper. In trying to remove it the wall is gouged and the paper on the sheetrock is coming off.
See, now that's what I'm talking about. You don't have to drywall over everything. You can prime with Kilz or other interior oil based primer, and skim coat over it. Light sanding, prime with your favorite interior primer and paint, paper, whatever you plan on doing.
Note that you should first go around and peel off any loose or delaminated paper. I go around and lighly sweep the paper with my finger tips and 'listen' for anything that has delaminated. Wear a work glove if that irritates your fingers. Mine are pretty much numb. :)
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Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at AWorkOfWood.com
Edited 5/29/2008 10:25 am by Ted W.
Edited 5/29/2008 10:28 am by Ted W.
Durabond 90 or 120 applied with a 1/4" notched trowel- use a 2x to bed the 3/8" and use laminating screws. Remember you'll need 1/4" (I haven't seen 3/8") plaster rings for your outlet and switch boxes.
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.
- Fyodor Dostoyevski
Edited 5/29/2008 3:49 am ET by FNbenthayer
I used all purpose drywall mud. I would cut and make sure the piece fit frist. Then lay the piece on a set of saw horses on it's back. I used a 1/4" notched adhesive spreader to get it unifromly spead on the back.
If you wish to deaden sound too, there is a product called "Green Glue".
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
What is green glue. Who makes it and who sells it.
It's a sound deadening adhesive that never dries fully hard. Do a search for Green Glue to find it.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
I use the drywall adhesive and apply it using the dot method. I can put a dot every 6" as fast as a guy can run a continuous bead. I used that method for two years when I was involved in metal stud tenant work.
The benefits are many: less glue, superior and more uniform bonding, less cost, etc. It holds like you have nails at 6" oc. If you need more...put the dots on 4" oc which would be serious overkill. If you use the dot method, even at 8" oc, you will never, ever separate that wall without destroying everything.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07