Replies

1. 
   seeyou | Oct 04, 2004 04:55pm | #1

   Does the flashing have to be tucked in the mortar joint or is it acceptable to just cut a kerf in the brick and tuck it in there?

   Either way is acceptable if done right. I don't like the kerf method on a residence. To my eye it is more of a commercial type flashing.

    What should be used to seal the top edge of aluminum flashing?

   I prefer to not use aluminum for anything except to drink beer out of and then I prefer glass. But, to answer your question, the flashing should be mortared in or a high quality caulk (Geocel 2300 is my preference) used.

   Do you have a full masonry chimney or is it a chase veneered with brick?

   I invented brick and brack.

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Oct 04, 2004 09:55pm | #4

   Sounds like the step flashing is caulked to the face of the brick.

   Could'nt he saw cut a riglet ithe bed mortar joints and add the counter  (cap) flashing over the step flashing? Depending on roof and or cricket pitch it will step up every  two or three courses.

   Believe you gave a real good dessertaion on how to brake, fit and secure this type flashing a few years ago. IIRC I was impressed with your method over mine b/c it reduced the "oil canning" affect I use to get in some of my work.

   Time to hold class agian :)

   Dave

2. 
   tcalisto | Oct 05, 2004 07:30pm | #6

   Greencu,

   Thanks for the response. To answer your question it is a veneered chase. The builder was out there yesterday and he is blaming it on the brick being porous. I still believe that it is the flashing so I am going to try and post a picture of it in the near future

   Thanks again,

   Tom

1. 
   seeyou | Oct 05, 2004 07:47pm | #8

   If it's a brick chase, at least one side has brick setting on a steel lintel. This needs to be thru flashed. All brick is pourous. Measures have to be taken to keep their porosity (is that a word?) from allowing water toenter the structure.

   I invented porosity.

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Oct 05, 2004 08:35pm | #9

   i've noticed in traveling that a lot of different materials are used on chimneys..

    here in New England the material of choice would typically be lead... or on stone chimneys and on high end work.. it would be copper or lead coat..

   as you get further south and west the material of choice tends to aluminum... and not very pretty, either.... usually one piece for each side instead of the traditional step up the courses....

   some parts of the country used to use galv. sheet  or painted steel before aluminum became available..

    in all parts , of course, copper or lead coat copper is the signature of high end work

   the flash is usually let in when the chimney is laid up.. but on rework we cut in new reglets with a 4" or 5" grinder or cutoff wheel..

   we may pour a proper cap at the same time.. as most caps are cracked since they were never formed , but rather  just  a large dollop of concrete poured on top of the birck and tapered to  nothing at the edges.. since concrete has no strength in thin sections , it cracks and the chimney leaks

   if you have a stone chioney,, you can almost count on the chimney leaking unless it is thru-flashed to the flue tilesMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   seeyou | Oct 05, 2004 09:45pm | #10

   About a year ago, I had the big production oriented residential roofing company in this area call me wanting to sub me to do their flashing. We agreed on price, but they wanted me to use terne II rather than copper ( i was providing materials ) so they could do a big up charge to copper. It was going to cost me more to do the terne flashing (since I had to paint it) than copper. The deal fell through. Anyway, we seldom see aluminum, occasionally lead, occaisonally LCC, lots of rusty terne, and way too many mammy messes. Almost all flashing installed around here in the last 5-6 years is bright, shiney, 16 oz copper.

   Oh, did you look at that LULL/JLG telehandler/boom?

2. 
   xMikeSmith | Oct 05, 2004 11:11pm | #11

   looked at the lull, the skytrack... and the IR.. gave all my research to my friend 

   i'll post some of the results in the photo section later .. look for something called

   "framing for curves"Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   csnow | Oct 04, 2004 05:07pm | #2

   Aluminum is a poor choice for masonry contact.

   This site has some good diagrams:

   http://www.copper.org/applications/architecture/arch_dhb/fc/fc_st_chmny.html

3. 
   BillHartmann | Oct 04, 2004 05:19pm | #3

   "3. What should be used to seal the top edge of aluminum flashing?"

   There shouldn't be an "top edge" to seal.

   The copper web site shows a "cap" flashing that is let in the mortar with covers the step flashing. I have alway heard that called counter flashing.

1. 
   seeyou | Oct 05, 2004 12:32am | #5

   There shouldn't be an "top edge" to seal.

   I think there is a counter flashing in this case. It's cut into a kerf cut thru the brick and mortar parallel to the roof (or at least that's my understanding) rather than individual flags for each course of brick. I'm assuming he want's to know what to seal the metal to kerf joint with. I could be wrong, just ask my wife.

   I invented kerfing. I'm a kerfer dude.

2. 
   tcalisto | Oct 05, 2004 07:44pm | #7

   Bill,

   The flashing does consist of step and counterflashing. I was concerned about how to seal the top edge of the counterflashing, because I was thinking that it should tucked in a mortar joint and repointed.

   Thanks,

   Tom