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Discussion Forum

Protecting paint and such from freezing

| Posted in General Discussion on December 2, 2001 04:58am

*
Here in the upper mid-west its that time of year again when I pack everything up that will be susceptible to freezing such as paint, stain, glue, sealant, etc. and move it from the shop into the house. Obviously this becomes a nuisance during the winter months making trips back and fourth to retrieve this stuff.

One idea I had was to take an old chest type freezer, keep all these items in it and use a small heat source such as plumbing heat tape to keep it above freezing. The problem as I see it… Many highly combustible items in an airtight container with electricity. Not a good idea.

Has anybody come up with a way to keep items like this in an unheated shop?

Scott R.

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  1. Bill_Hartmann | Nov 28, 2001 07:18pm | #1

    *
    Scott

    It should work. I know of a number of people that use old refigerators and SMALL (25-40 watt) bulbs.

    i The problem as I see it... Many highly combustible items in an airtight container with electricity.

    Actually that is a good combination. Being airtight limits an combustion.

    1. Thom_Richey | Nov 28, 2001 07:25pm | #2

      *I have been thinking about this myself due to a similar situation. I have seen people use a chest freezer (as you say) or an old refrigerator and rig up a 60 or 100 watt lightbulb in the bottom to provide heat. Others have fabricated insulated cabinets to suit their needs. In one case they even cannibalized an electric heater for the thermostat and used that.Like you, I am not too sure of exposed electrics along with solvent fumes in an enclosed space... One thought that I had was to use the "heat rocks" that they use for reptile and small animal cages. These are a heating element totally encased in resin "rock" for the animal to curl up against. They are available in different sizes as well. Check out any larger pet store and they should be able to help you.Disclaimer: I have not actually tried heating up an insulated space with one of these. However, if a 60 watt lightbulb works, I would think that this would also provide enough heat...

      1. Wayne_Law | Nov 29, 2001 01:29am | #3

        *You could heat the chest with tubing with warm water circulating through it. The tubing would be heated via a small water heater set to some low temperature, say 100°. A thermostat in the chest would turn a tiny circulating pump on and off to maintain temperature in the chest.Why not build a small wheeled chest and roll it into the house in the winter?

        1. iron_helix | Nov 30, 2001 02:07pm | #4

          *ScottTo remove the possibility of an electrical arc in the refrigerator environment install a neopreme pigtail socket in the refrig sidewall by siliconing the socket into a hole-sawed opening. Let the pigtail exit to the outside of the frig into an electrical box screwed to the outside of the refrig where you will make the electrical connections to an extension cord, which is pluged in to a "thermocube" that only turns on the light when the shop temp is below 37 deg..Be sure to cage the bulb to prevent a shifting can from breaking the bulb or allowing the heat of the bulb to be in direct contact with any paint product cans.It makes a nice "re-heat-erator"------------Iron Helix

          1. mark_holbrook | Nov 30, 2001 02:20pm | #5

            *I'd use an explosion proof lampholder with a long life or 130 volt bulb.

          2. Scott_R | Nov 30, 2001 08:16pm | #6

            *Thanks for the inputI do have an old fridge (that still works). You folks have given me an idea. I could just use the existing light socket in the fridge and wire it to a thermo cube like iron helix suggested.Even without the electrical element, I'm still concerned about solvent vapor in a small-enclosed space.Scott R.

          3. Tim_Kline | Nov 30, 2001 11:37pm | #7

            *Our painter uses a superinsulated large closet with one 100 watt light bulb hung from the ceiling.

          4. Doug_Irwin | Dec 01, 2001 12:00am | #8

            *I've just set up a similar unit using an old freezer that I had. Installed a grounded ceramic socket and use a 30 watt floodlamp bulb. It held the temperature at 75 degrees through a below zero night recently.One note of caution, a fella was telling me that he uses a rubber socket in a well tank hole to keep a pipe from freezing and found that anything over a 40 watt bulb would turn the rubber socket brittle within a year.

          5. Luka_ | Dec 01, 2001 10:28am | #9

            *I wonder if there is some way to 'reverse' a working fridge ? Cold out, warm in.

          6. mark_holbrook | Dec 01, 2001 05:58pm | #10

            *I had a fridge like that once.

          7. David_Doud | Dec 01, 2001 06:11pm | #11

            *turn the plug over -

          8. Forrest_McCanless | Dec 02, 2001 04:58am | #12

            *Yes, you can probably "reverse" a fridge. I "reverse" my shop window AC unit each winter to act as a heat pump. $25.00 in parts, and as long as it stays above 35-40 outside, I can stay at 65 inside (22' square shop with good insulation). I'm in Atlanta, the living is easy, what can I say . . .

  2. Scott_R | Dec 02, 2001 04:58am | #13

    *
    Here in the upper mid-west its that time of year again when I pack everything up that will be susceptible to freezing such as paint, stain, glue, sealant, etc. and move it from the shop into the house. Obviously this becomes a nuisance during the winter months making trips back and fourth to retrieve this stuff.

    One idea I had was to take an old chest type freezer, keep all these items in it and use a small heat source such as plumbing heat tape to keep it above freezing. The problem as I see it... Many highly combustible items in an airtight container with electricity. Not a good idea.

    Has anybody come up with a way to keep items like this in an unheated shop?

    Scott R.

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