If you plan to nail down the future floor, there’s no problem. If you plan to glue something down, choose your paint carefully so you don’t cause a problem later. If you really want protection, caulk the joints. If this is for short term protection, 5-6 months, then puit on a good coat or two of paint primer.
I’m sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Replies
One word.
AdvanTech. Phenomenal stuff.
http://www.huberwood.com
Greg
AdvanTech. Phenomenal stuff.
But isn't that stuff running 2-3 times more expensive than the ply?
Anybody noticed the original post in this thread was deleted?
jt8
Opportunity doesn't knock. You knock, opportunity answers. -- American Proverb
Why not use a outdoor grade of plywood?
We used to roll a coat of Thomsons waterseal on if the sub floor was going to be exposed for long. Like some one else said Advantech Gold solves the problem in advance. Jay
What about a rolled on coat of copper naphthenate? Makes the surface water AND bug resistant, and you can glue onto it later.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Copper napthenate on that large a surface might still have an objectionable chemical odor after you get the place closed up. The stuff I use (Jasco Termin-8) says on the label that the feds prohibit interior use.
I love the stuff for outdoor use. But I sure don't want a visit from the Federal Bureau of Smelly Wood Preservatives. ;-)
-- J.S.
True, but you could go with a lower percentage formula. I know that HD carries a 25% (Jasco Termin-8), a 12%, and a clear 10 or lower %. Perhaps the lowest one might work better in this case?
Plus, it's only smelly for a short time. If the panels are free breathing with outside air for a few days, most of the smell should be long gone. I wouldn't recommend doing a sealed up room with it though.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
I used some in my crawl space, IIRC, I was smelling it in the house for 6-8 months. After a while you only notice it when you come back from being away for a while.
-- J.S.
I have seen some guys in the past , get Reject/wrong color returned paint for cheap...mix a few gals together in a five gal bucket..mop it on.
Seems to have done something..at least make snap lines easier to see..LOL
I like advantec , good stuff.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
I have seen some guys in the past , get Reject/wrong color returned paint for cheap...mix a few gals together in a five gal bucket..mop it on.
That's how you wind up with a pink submarine ;)
jt8
Opportunity doesn't knock. You knock, opportunity answers. -- American Proverb
Actually, it's more of a puce.
ok, Ill be the one that disagrees with advantech, for the average joe
note I said average joe,
or the unknowing joe that is sold the product by a "pro" at a big box store
squeks
a lot of you know this from the same school I went to "HKU"
hard knocks university
but lets go to the begining........thats the floor joists. I dont build L360, but Im getting ready to build everything L900+
seems every year the TJI guys come out with differnt rules , thats why I say 900+
I glue and screw my subfloor
and if its not dry, I dont care what the glue reps say, it does not work as good
yeah Ive read the ads, sticks in the wet, sticks in the cold, yeah sure
I use the best glue for the current year
but if I get squeeks its due to particle board over subfloor and fastener( dont get me started on top flange hangers)
or wall attachment
why
because Ive learned from hard knocks and reps coming to the job
1) particle board over it should be glued and screwed * on 6 inch centers, what the..
2) walls should be screwed* to the floor
ok notes ****
if you use anything less then 1 1/8 in my area , that is what it has to be 1 1/8 when finihsed if on anything more then a 12" center, like 16 or 19.2
**screws ?
a nail does not hold as well in osb type products as it does in naturaul wood or plywood, so it seems.
try it , sink a 8d galvy in a piece of 3/4+ ply and the same in 3/4 osb. tell me which has more strenth
the trick to screws is this. the screw should not pass through the subfloor by more then 1/16 of an inch, as I was told, othewise the wide body of the screw shank loosens the wood fibers as it goes through, you want screw threads in osb products to enter into "virgin" meat, slowly baby, take it slow
why
dont use a screw gun that spins too fast or the clutch is too high
why, same reason kind of, spinning too fast will asct as a drill bit and eat out all the meat the screw is supposed to enter
and
dont use anything osb type product less then 1 inch, and do it in the dry, then you dont need to cover it agian with particle board before the vinyl goes down
like I said earlier, Im not making this up, this is what reps have told me when I had the big ugly ................................"call backs"
and of course Im always made to feel , this is my fault, so eat it
well thats my well paid for 2 cents worth
Edited 3/22/2005 7:09 pm ET by Isamemon
Edited 3/22/2005 7:13 pm ET by Isamemon
Wow, hey, don't hold back!! Let it all out while yer at it!! LOL
I really understand where you are coming from. I guess some of that stuff I never really "thought of". Well, top flange hangers are plain obvious!
Good post! Little off topic, but good nonetheless!Quality, Craftsmanship, Detail