Replies

1. 
   GregGibson | Mar 22, 2005 08:08pm | #1

   One word.

   AdvanTech.  Phenomenal stuff.

   http://www.huberwood.com

   Greg

1. 
   JohnT8 | Mar 23, 2005 09:19pm | #11

   AdvanTech.  Phenomenal stuff.

   But isn't that stuff running 2-3 times more expensive than the ply?

   Anybody noticed the original post in this thread was deleted?

    jt8

   Opportunity doesn't knock. You knock, opportunity answers. -- American Proverb

2. 
   cicero | Mar 22, 2005 08:18pm | #2

   Why not use a outdoor grade of plywood?

3. 
   Jay72 | Mar 22, 2005 10:23pm | #3

   We used to roll a coat of Thomsons waterseal on if the sub floor was going to be exposed for long. Like some one else said Advantech Gold solves the problem in advance. Jay

4. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Mar 23, 2005 12:50am | #4

   What about a rolled on coat of copper naphthenate?  Makes the surface water AND bug resistant, and you can glue onto it later.

   Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

   Also a CRX fanatic!

1. 
   JohnSprung | Mar 23, 2005 03:43am | #6

   Copper napthenate on that large a surface might still have an objectionable chemical odor after you get the place closed up.  The stuff I use (Jasco Termin-8) says on the label that the feds prohibit interior use. 

   I love the stuff for outdoor use.  But I sure don't want a visit from the Federal Bureau of Smelly Wood Preservatives.  ;-)

    

   -- J.S.

    

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Mar 23, 2005 09:17am | #8

   True, but you could go with a lower percentage formula.  I know that HD carries a 25% (Jasco Termin-8), a 12%, and a clear 10 or lower %.  Perhaps the lowest one might work better in this case?

   Plus, it's only smelly for a short time.  If the panels are free breathing with outside air for a few days, most of the smell should be long gone.  I wouldn't recommend doing a sealed up room with it though.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

   Also a CRX fanatic!

1. 
   JohnSprung | Mar 23, 2005 08:20pm | #9

   I used some in my crawl space, IIRC, I was smelling it in the house for 6-8 months.  After a while you only notice it when you come back from being away for a while.

    

   -- J.S.

    

1. 
   Sphere | Mar 23, 2005 09:11pm | #10

   I have seen some guys in the past , get Reject/wrong color returned paint for cheap...mix a few gals together in a five gal bucket..mop it on.

   Seems to have done something..at least make snap lines easier to see..LOL

   I like advantec , good stuff. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

2. 
   JohnT8 | Mar 23, 2005 09:23pm | #12

   I have seen some guys in the past , get Reject/wrong color returned paint for cheap...mix a few gals together in a five gal bucket..mop it on.

   That's how you wind up with a pink submarine  ;)

    jt8

   Opportunity doesn't knock. You knock, opportunity answers. -- American Proverb

3. 
   DanH | Mar 24, 2005 04:30am | #13

   Actually, it's more of a puce.

5. 
   Isamemon | Mar 23, 2005 01:53am | #5

   ok, Ill be the one that disagrees with advantech, for the average joe

   note I said average joe,

   or the unknowing joe that is sold the product by a "pro" at a big box store

   squeks

   a lot of you know this from the same school I went to "HKU"

   hard knocks university

   but lets go to the begining........thats the floor joists. I dont build L360, but Im getting ready to build everything L900+

   seems every year the TJI guys come out with differnt rules , thats why I say 900+

   I glue and screw my subfloor

   and if its not dry, I dont care what the glue reps say, it does not work as good

   yeah Ive read the ads, sticks in the wet, sticks in the cold, yeah sure

   I use the best glue for the current year

   but if I get squeeks its due to particle board over subfloor and fastener( dont get me started on top flange hangers)

   or wall attachment

   why

   because Ive learned from hard knocks and reps coming to the job

   1) particle board over it should be glued and screwed * on 6 inch centers, what the..

   2) walls should be screwed* to the floor

   ok notes ****

   if you use anything less then 1 1/8 in my area , that is what it has to be  1 1/8 when finihsed if on anything more then a 12" center, like 16 or 19.2

   **screws ?

   a nail does not hold as well in osb type products as it does in naturaul wood or plywood, so it seems.

   try it , sink a 8d galvy in a piece of 3/4+  ply and the same in 3/4 osb. tell me which has more strenth 

   the trick to screws is this. the screw should not pass through the subfloor by more then 1/16 of an inch, as I was told, othewise the wide body of the screw shank loosens the  wood fibers as it goes through, you want screw threads in osb products  to enter into "virgin" meat, slowly baby, take it slow

   why

   dont use a screw gun that spins too fast or the clutch is too high

   why, same reason kind of, spinning too fast will asct as a drill bit and eat out all the meat the screw is supposed to enter

   and

   dont use anything  osb type product less then 1 inch, and do it in the dry, then you dont need to cover it agian with particle board before the vinyl goes down

   like I said earlier, Im not making this up, this is what reps have told me when I had the big ugly ................................"call backs"

   and of course Im always made to feel , this is my fault, so eat it

    

   well thats my well paid for 2 cents worth

   ---

   Edited 3/22/2005 7:09 pm ET by Isamemon

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/22/2005 7:13 pm ET by Isamemon

1. 
   Hooker | Mar 23, 2005 04:40am | #7

   Wow, hey, don't hold back!!  Let it all out while yer at it!!  LOL

   I really understand where you are coming from.  I guess some of that stuff I never really "thought of".  Well, top flange hangers are plain obvious!

   Good post!  Little off topic, but good nonetheless!Quality, Craftsmanship, Detail