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protecting wires in cabs

rfarnham | Posted in Construction Techniques on November 12, 2007 09:15am

What does code (IRC 2003 is my local code) require to protect wires that would be exposed in a cabinet. I need to run 3 strands of 14-3 to a three gang switch box in a kitchen base cabinet. There is no way to hide the wires behind the cabinet, so I’m looking for the most inconspicuous (and safe) way to run the wires along the inside of the cabinet.

My wiring experience is residential only, so my exposure to things like conduit and armored cable is pretty minimal.

I could build some sort of chase in the back of the cabinet, but doesn’t code want the wires at least 1.25″ deep. That chase would get pretty big. Surely there’s a better way.

The wires would be coming out of the floor of the cabinet, up one side, and to the front of the case.

Thanks,

-Rich

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Replies

  1. woodway | Nov 12, 2007 09:27pm | #1

    If they're within reach, they need to be covered and protected.

  2. john7g | Nov 12, 2007 09:29pm | #2

    Don't know what code says but I've seen plenty of BX run inside the base cabs to power the outlet at the end of peninsulas.

    1. DanH | Nov 12, 2007 09:31pm | #4

      BX is different -- considered to be self-protecting to a degree.
      If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader

      1. john7g | Nov 12, 2007 09:54pm | #6

        but BX would meet/exceed code, right?

        1. DanH | Nov 12, 2007 10:10pm | #7

          I'm not a code lawyer. There are several different armored cables, and it's not clear that all would be legal in this scenario. EMT conduit would probably be the safest route. Of course, don't forget to install bushings on the ends, whatever you use.Note that it may be acceptable to simply box the cables with wood. Again, I'm not a code lawyer.
          If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader

  3. DanH | Nov 12, 2007 09:30pm | #3

    Basically must be covered and protected from damage (from lose knives, appliances being shoved against wires, etc). Some really retentive EIs might also require nail plating.

    If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
    1. JHOLE | Nov 12, 2007 09:47pm | #5

      Can you sleave them with greenfield?

      Per code?Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City

      1. rfarnham | Nov 14, 2007 12:08am | #9

        What's greenfield?

        1. DanH | Nov 14, 2007 01:00am | #11

          "Greenfield" is a brand name that has become a non-brand designation for spiral-wound metalic flex conduit. One has to be careful when using the term, since there are many different varieties of flex conduit -- thinwall, thickwall, steel, aluminum, plastic coated, watertight, etc.
          If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader

  4. BryanSayer | Nov 13, 2007 01:56am | #8

    IF it is allowed, WireMould might be a better choice. It has connections to transition from romex and back, will be square so not look like conduit, and be a pleasing color. Well maybe pleasing.

    1. rfarnham | Nov 14, 2007 12:11am | #10

      Interesting thought. The issue is still that I have to cover three strands of 14-3. The wire mould I saw at the hardware store could only handle 1. I guess I could run 3 strips next to each other.I'm starting to think I'll just box it out with wood. I've got a call in to the loccal inspector, so I'll post back what he says in case others are interested.-Rich

  5. edlee | Nov 14, 2007 02:00am | #12

    I usually run MC cable in the situation you describe. And the inspectors around here can be VERY picky :-)  

    Could you install a J-box (4-sq X 2-1/2" deep metal box for example) in the basement ceiling to make the transition from Rx to MC ?

    Ed

  6. bubbajames | Nov 14, 2007 04:08am | #13

    MC or BX, period.

  7. IdahoDon | Nov 14, 2007 07:10am | #14

    No, your wires don't need to be 1-1/4" deep.  That's framing on sheetrock covered walls.  Just run the wires up a gap in the back where you won't put a screw.  Any exposed wire should be armored so it's best to preplan the route so it can be hidden completely.  It would be much better to build a cabinet with a side (with wiring) that is two sheets of ply with a grove routed between them for a minimal wire chase.

    Rule of thumb is if you can hide it, you can use romex, if not it has to be armored some how.

    Good building

     

    Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

    1. rfarnham | Nov 15, 2007 08:51am | #16

      That's what my inspector said as well--don't need to be 1-1/4" deep, just protected. I'm doing a variation on the routed groove that you describe.Thanks everyone for the advice!-Rich

      1. DanH | Nov 15, 2007 02:22pm | #17

        If there's any danger at all of a wayward nail hitting the wires, cover the area with metal, I'm guessing about 16 gage steel. Any suitably sized chunk of metal will work.
        If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader

  8. rasconc | Nov 14, 2007 07:47am | #15

    Someone else mentioned wiremold but they also make plugmold without devices (plugs/recpt).   Go down to the bottom page of this pdf, capacity chart is next to last page.  Wirefill for nm2000 series is 45 14ga conductors if I read this correctly. 

    You may have trouble finding what you want in stock if you do not have some pretty big elec houses to go to.  The big boxes have a limited range.

    You may get into some bundling issues but I doubt it.  Surely with a three run of 14-3 switch legs in a 45 capacity raceway one should be safe but I would get an electrican/inspectors advice.

    Bob (not an electrician)

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