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I found a campbell hausfield 6.5 hp, 60 gallon for $380. The best place is in the basement, but I need the air in the shop, a 100ft distance. Can I run pvc underground? If so, what size? Would it be smart to run 2″ to act as extra tank space? Would pvc hold up?
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RJT
HI
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but PVC should NEVER be used for compressed air service.
PVC cannot handle the cyclic load that air places on it, and it will fail. The usual failure is a tear of 2 to 3 feet along a length of pipe. Occasionally it shatters the pipe. It rarely just pushes a fitting off.
Buried air lines are the least desirable installation. Depending on the temperature of the basement and the depth of burial you can end up with a LOT of water condensing in the line. There is no inexpensive fix for this problem.
Compressors can be a little noisy for the basement. If you can run pipe out to the building, why not run wire? IMO I would work very hard at locating the compressor in the shed, even if it meant a lean-to addition.
The good news is that if you must do the 100' run, for a compressor this size 1" galvanized sch. 40 pipe would be fine.
BTW
The prefered way to run the pipe in the building is a loop around the perimeter with drip legs in each corner(bottom side). Take your drops off the pipe from the top side, using 2 90's to turn it down to your end connectors. These can also end in drip legs if you wish. This is a quick description, I can be more detailed if you wish.
Again I hate to be the bearer of bad news, or to grind this into the dirt, but PLEASE do not run compressed air in PVC. You save nothing. Its unsafe.
BTW-In commercial/industrial settings OSHA will blow up faster than the pipe !
Scott
*RJT, I don't know how safe this is, but when when we've had a long distance to power poles, 3/4" black poly water pipe worked.The stuff comes in 250' rolls so, no joints in your case. Have run a wheelbarrow Emgloe for 3 months like that ( line went under the driveway, also) and never had any problems. We double hose clamped all connectors, the rest was kind of la de da but it worked. There's filters for water. I am in complete agreement with DSOB on the PVC. I don't think it will take it in the long run.Good deal on the compressor!Airheadedly yours, BB
*DSOB & Buck: Taking your advice on no pvc. I understand the pipe configuration DSOB, keeps the water from coming thru the tool.
*RJTThank you for listening on the PVC.Galvanized pipe will be your most trouble free. I can't recommend any plastics. Stick with steelThink about your location a little. The effectiveness of simple filters will change with the weather. Scott
*There was a discussion on PVC for air on a cabinetmaker board not long ago. Guys were saying PVC for shorthand, but there is a plastic pipe (ABS rather than PVC, maybe, would have to check) that is rated for compressed air, and is beloved by OSHA. This was the first time i had every heard of air in plastic for a shop, and opinion was divided. Some guys loved the plastic, some, myself included, liked copper, and some wouldn't use anything but black iron. I think there is a link in that discussion to OSHA specs re: plastic for compressed air. It's the forum for FDM and Cabinetmaker mags, the discussion is probably in the archives.
*I decided to pass on buying the air compressor right now until I get some other stuff paid off. I am considering putting it outside the shop in a lean-to as suggested, or possibly in the floor above the shop. But what I'm really thinking of doing is getting a two-stage, why not? The C-Hausfield I mentioned has aluminum engine, is that as good as cast iron?Adrian: I'll take a look at that site, I go there occasionally. I like the idea of plastic air-line, easy to work with.
*Personally, if you have a choice, I'd go cast iron. But if I got a good deal on something else... I used to have a big aluminum one, worked fine. I think it was a C-H.
*If you want a "plastic" pipe that's rated for air pressure, visit a truck repair shop and pick up a roll or two of nylon air tubing used on all the trucks with air brakes. I've worked with the stuff for over 25 years, and it is almost indestructable. Since the common sizes are 3/8" and 1/2", with 5/8" and 3/4" being less common, you'd have to run parallel lines. I'd also think about putting an accumulator tank in your outbuilding, plus all the other advice to prevent water.
*I have been using polybutelene (the grey stuff) with copper crimps from my compressor to the work stations. This has been in use for about five years now without any problems.I used brass fittings for the crimp joints. any comments on this?
*Don't.I asked a master plumber about PVC for air and he told me that it was a Really Bad Career Move. Not rated for the pressure. When it blows, sharp plastic fragments go whizzing about.But, you say, it will be underground. Like digging the ditch twice? The brake line suggestion is interesting. You could also post the question to the plumbing forum and get some expert http://www.plbg.com/cgi-bin/forum.html?0I should think that copper would do just fine.ToolBear
*Whatever you decide to use I'd recommend putting it into a sleeve (PVC), so IF it ever broke, it could be repaired without digging it up again.
*I think I remember reading that copper is not a good choice because it will eventually rupture under the pressure of air. I think they even showed pictures of distorted copper lines. But then again, I could be mixing stuff up. - jb
*HOw about using a rubber line?Senco makes them in loooonggg lengths, and in varying sizes too! And they even have no clamp fittings that slide into the ends.And it's very easy to work with.And it osha approved!Just wondering, why would you use anything else?blue
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I found a campbell hausfield 6.5 hp, 60 gallon for $380. The best place is in the basement, but I need the air in the shop, a 100ft distance. Can I run pvc underground? If so, what size? Would it be smart to run 2" to act as extra tank space? Would pvc hold up?