Would like to order windows this week and will probably be installing full-frame Andersen Woodrights (double-hung). I’ve attached some photos showing the close quarters between the current window and the brick veneer at the top and bottom. I think I have enough room to nail the flanges at the sides, but not sure about above and beneath. Are the flanges removable? Could I drive some screws through the jambs instead?<!—-> <!—-><!—->
Thanks, <!—-><!—->
Michael
New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
Replies
Mike,
On some new windows I've seen those flanges just fold back, so they're out of the way completely. If they aren't the type that fold back, I would just cut them off.
Sure, you can screw through the jambs. Takes a little finesse though. If you over tighten then you'll rack the window.
Mike M
How much shorter are the windows one size down?
Obviously you don't want to shrink the opening drastically....but giving yourself some room for exterior casings would be good.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"How much shorter are the windows one size down?"
J.D., the photo shows a 30/32. So, I'm assuming the next thing shorter would be a 30/30. The exterior casing does concern me. The outer trim was fairly thin and it was nailed to the window frame. I'm not sure how to go about attaching the exterior trim once the new window is in. The only available surfaces will be the window cladding and the brick veneer.
MichaelNew knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
From the pics, it looks as though you've got less than 1 1/2" for casings on the sides, and less still at the header.
I'd be inclined to go a little shorter (30 by 30 if available).....and fit a 2" (+/-) head casing in there so long as it didn't reduce the window too greatly for your desire.
Then I'd prefab my casings and install as one piece through flanges.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Normally you can buy what they call block style windows which are made for the replacement of existing windows and do not require flanges and tearing out materials around a window. Most companies sell them but most likely you will have to ask.
Andersen also makes a Woodwright Replacement window, where it wouldn't have flanges. Also, an easier installation.
http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/Satellite/replacement-windows-for-your-home.htm
Edited 2/13/2007 11:09 am ET by jocobe
mwaines
Don't screw through the jambs. Unsightly holes you have to fix.
Attach several pieces of plumber's steel strap to the outside of the jambs with short screws as close behind the exterior casing as you reasonably can. Use these to pull the window in tight and screw through them into the framing after the window is properly shimmed.
Ron
Andersen's website has a ton of information. I'd check it out, or give them a call. The windows should be installed per their instructions in order to preserve the warranty.
Edited 2/13/2007 6:30 pm ET by jocobe
There's an important issue here that no one has touched on- how do you plan to deal with diverting any moisture that gets through the brick and needs to be drained out of the cavity?
In cavity wall applications like you seem to have there, there's typically a flashing system integrated around the window to keep any water that gets into the cavity from seeping into the backup framing around the windows. You're going to have a heck of a time getting a proper drainage plane around the windows if you use a slip-in window and can't properly seal to the backup materials.
Bob
On 400 series andersons the nailing flange may be removed. On the 200 series the flange is attached and could pose a problem. Just check it before you order.