Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Nov 02, 1999 07:47am | #1

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   Talked yourself into that one din't ya. I guess your going to be the expert on copper and wood and you can tell us !
   Here's a winger:
   try muriatc acid like for masonry cleaning, 20% solution and dilute that by adding it to water. Then spray with a good poly. Epoxy glue should work fine and you could always pin them by drilling and drive and countersink a 4d finish nail.

2. 
   Eric_M._Borgman | Nov 02, 1999 05:21pm | #2

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   What kind of finish do they want? Bright, dull, brown, green? Bright finish can be accomplished by using a cleaner and buffing with jeweler's rouge. Be careful not to handle the metal with bare hands. The oils from your hands will stain the metal over time. Use white cotton gloves and keep them clean! Browns and greens can be obtained using special "verdigris" finishes available through some FHB vendors. Don't remember specific names. I would hesitate to use acid. (hazardous, disposal problems, mess, etc.) This will be a lot of WORK. I hope you bid accordingly.

1. 
   david_sorg | Nov 03, 1999 07:33am | #3

   *Eric's questions are right, but assuming they want the copper color instead of a patina, I would suggest trying to talk them into a satin finish because it's the easiest look to obtain initially as well as to repair if (when) it becomes necessary. Sand with your choice (slightly different looks) of 220 to 600 grit paper, used dry. Handle with gloves. I recommend clear-coating with lacquer (gloss); it sticks well and won't have the film look that thicker coatings produce. I love film finishes, but they rob some of the metallic look that you would probably want to keep with the copper.

3. 
   Guest_ | Nov 03, 1999 08:14am | #4

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   Hey, I can probably take credit for this one! The original idea wasn't mine but I brought it up. Please report back what you learn.

   If you can use the dull brown patina -- which may look very nice with a darker wood finish -- I found it can be acquired in a few weeks by leaving them outside. Skin oils are important to avoid until it's changed. If you don't want to sand with steel wool or paper, clean with thinner -- I suspect that will take the lettering off. I didn't bother and think the brown is nice. All bright copper sounds garish if there's too much of it, esp. now that you need balusters gapped 4". ... but the customer's always right, and I guess you could just strip 'em later ...

   I'm using West epoxy and/or pinning the pipe with predrilled nail holes. Roughening the pipe would likely allow the epoxy to grip a lot better. Generally, I'm just going to trasp the pipe rather than rely on glue. BTW, 1" pipe runs about $1/ft., cheaper in bulk.

4. 
   SteveM_ | Nov 03, 1999 08:16am | #5

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   I recently read about using copper pipes as spindles for railings on here. I mentioned it to a customer and they fell in love with the idea and now I have to do it in their family room. Has anyone got any advice on keeping a consistent look to the shine of the copper ie. do you sand it all with fine sandpaper or emery cloth. I can spray laquer in my shop, and thought that would preserve the finish but I have never sprayed laquer onto copper. If anyone has, please tell me of your successes and or failures. I prefer to do things once and d them right. Also I am wondering about the effectiveness of glue between wood and copper? Thanks for any advice or tips. SteveM