Question Regarding Building a Load-Bearing Wall in Place
Hello,
I am currently re-framing exterior load bearing walls on an old detached garage that had major rot in both the sills and studs, and I was hoping I could get some insight on how snug the new studs need to be. This may seem like an obvious or stupid question, but I am having a bit of trouble with it. Don’t worry, the structure is already supported with temporary walls (I consulted with a structural engineer, and have framed small structures in the past).
Back to the issue: the studs are all just slightly different lengths as this is an old building that has settled over time, and I have noticed that when i make one stud tight by having even an extra 1/32″ (requiring a few light taps with a hammer or my hand) the two adjacent studs become somewhat loose – but they are still making contact with the sill and top plate. When I cut the studs all the exact distance between the sill and top plate (requiring almost no force to tap them in place), they stay in place and are making contact, but don’t feel snug at all. My question is- does this matter? Will the weight of the roof settle and compress the wall once the temporary wall is removed? Or will this create issues down the line?
Thanks for any help.
Replies
Did you Jack the joists above to level? Is the sill firmly fastened to the foundation?
Then I would make them as snug and plumb as I could, fasten both top and bottom, recite the remodelers prayer, and remove the temporary supports (after sheeting or bracing.
Thanks for your reply.
I did not jack the trusses up. I thought about it, but decided against it as I am doing this on my own at a relatively slow pace in my free time. I placed temporary braces on the trusses per the engineers request to create a new bearing point where I put up the temporary wall. The sill is securely fastened to the foundation with Simpson Strong-tie Titen HD concrete anchors. I will definitely attach the sheathing before I remove the temporary wall.
Whatever line your top plate is on the bottom of your top plate is the line you will end up with. That to me should be level and strait. Your roof structure should be perfect or the foundation should be. Since you’re in essence building on top of what foundation was there, your stud lengths would probably be cut to different lengths to make up the waves of the foundation.
But I’m in Ohio, can’t see it from my house.
In framing, 1/32 doesn't exist. Calvin is right that that the plate should be as straight and level as possible, but you're worrying about an inconsequential tolerance.
if you leveled the base sill plate when you replaced it, same length studs should give you a level top plate
good luck