Folks – I thought I’d seek the advice of the pros on a repair job. Before repainting my bevel cedar clapboard siding, I’d like to repair the cracked and broken claps. The ones that are majorly broken obviously have to get removed, but there are a fair number that are only cracked a bit and I’m uncertain how to decide which of these should be yanked.
I’m having a lot of trouble getting off individual claps without breaking the ones above and below as I get nails out. The claps are – I think this is the right term – double nailed, such that each clap is held by a row of nails bottom and top (through the overlying clap’s bottom edge). So trying to remove one mostly means removing at least 3 or 4, and the size of the job just keeps growing as I break otherwise-good clapboards.
So I thought I’d see what folks thoughts were regarding leaving the ones with smaller cracks, maybe just filling the cracks with some good caulk before painting. If anyone’s been in this position and would care to share how they chose which claps to take out, or how they got them out without a lot of additional breakage, I’d love to hear. Thanks –
Ken Platt in Granby, CT
Replies
First, when you replace, do not double nail. Make sure the nails are up high enough not to catch the clap below. Double nailing causes splitting. It prevent the claps from being able to move with seasonal moisture changes without cracking.
If they are newer claps and nailed with Maze nails, I have had good luck breaking the nails off with a sharp bar driven between the claps and into the nail, breaking it. If they are older nails, [less brittle and heavier gauge,] I would try a fine tooth blade in a short stroke sawzall and cut the nails. [you could use a hack saw blade, in a holder made for the blade, if you lack the power tool] Use a similar technique as above. Slide the blade between the claps and cut the nail. I think you will find this method is the least damaging to your siding. Then, after removing the siding, remove the nail head by placing the siding upside down over another board and driving the old nail loose with a nail set. This will prevent the nail head from causing tear-out when it is driven loose.
It's really a shame that there are so many poorly installed cedar clapboards that need repair. When removing, you have to take the nails out of the one above as well as the one you are replacing. I use a flat bar. It has a forked end and I try to fit this around the nail while slipping it under the clapboard. Just work it enough to get the head out so you can grab it with a hammer or other nail pulling tool. If the top is also nailed under the following clapboard, good luck. The wood isn't strong enough to stand any pressure and will usually split. With stubborn or hard to reach nails you can reach up with some dykes or slip in a metal cutting blade. You can put a handle on a hack saw blade or use a sawzall. In some cases it's easier just to drive the nail through with a set.
There can be times when you need to cut a clapboard in place. This takes a lot of care. The Fein Multimaster can be useful in these type of cuts. I use a router with a guide bushing and hold a jig that spans over a couple of boards and registers square. I set the bit to leave just a little that can be finished with a utility knife. You have to sneak in under the next clap to cut the top, where the router can't reach. You can also score with the knife, cut in a little with a chisel and repeat. Don't try to cut it hard with a knife. It will slip and maybe cut you as well as scratching the clap below. You have to be patient. You are better to wiggle the knife blade up and down as you press in, rather than make a slicing motion. Get a good knife. If you are good with a hand saw, you can cut a V with a knife to guide the saw. The trick with any method is not to cut the boards above or below, or cut too deep into the sheathing and building paper. If you do, slip a piece of tar paper in to cover.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Ken
Renovator's trick:
You can often break the bond between a nail and the wood it's in by giving it a little tap in before trying to get it to come out.
If you have to cut clapboard in place, a sharp drywall saw might help with the last bit on the top edge. Myself, I have a saw custom made for that job. The blade is a slim triangle and mounted on a handle like a chef's knife is so when the teeth are on the wood, your fingers aren't. I have hardly used it since leaving Newfoundland, where it was needed just about daily.
Ron