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Questions re: running elect wire

emaxxman | Posted in Construction Techniques on July 22, 2005 06:54am

I’ve got a few quick questions related to my recessed lights that I’m installing (I’ve asked quite a few related to tools to wiring, etc. recently; all having to do with these lights). Thanks for being so helpful.

Q1: While running the wires, it occured to me that pulling the wires thru old work is quite tough on the rubber insulation. I know that if it gets snagged on a nail, then there is a cause for concern. Assuming I don’t hit anything like nails or screws, is there any concerns that the pulling of the 12/2 cable thru the framing may damage the insulation? I had my wife feed me the cable as I pulled it thru so I didn’t have to pull hard.

Q2: Any tips (or links to articles) on how to run wire thru framing “correctly”? “Correctly” is in quotes because, aside from the usual code requirements, I’ve read it’s more an art than a science…ie you aim for short, clean runs etc.. Try to keep the cable neat and straight, i.e. no things like zig zags. I did drill and fish thru the studs where they were exposed in the basement instead of stapling it tothe bottom plate like some of my other cables. This was to make it easier later in case I decide to drywall it.

Q3: If you were an inspector and had to inspect the wiring, aside from the obvious stuff like correct guage, clean connections, large enough boxes, what else would you look for in a clean, nice wiring job? I guess this might be related to Q2.

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Replies

  1. dutchblue | Jul 22, 2005 08:34am | #1

    Q1 the sheathing is pretty tough, and for the most part you should have no trouble, especiaaly with the wife feeding it.

    Q2 it is really an art, as far as code there really isn't anything for code to look at if your fishing  thru walls.  That is why code waives securing requirements in work like this.  If you end up with zig zags in the wall it wont affect anything.

    Q3 I don't know what your situation is, but half the time when we install cans it is to replace the lousy energy efficient lighting in kitchens. We are therefore doing a very basic kind of work.  So much so that here in Washington we use a class B permit which we fill out and mail in ourselves.  Tells the state what we did, and where we did it.  Kind of a self inspection.    In situations like these, there really isn't anything for the inspector to look at. 

    Take your time and you'll do fine.  You are on line with your thought process.  Worst comes to worst you hire a sparky to come fish the wires for you and you get some free training.

  2. DavidThomas | Jul 22, 2005 12:11pm | #2

    Q1: Having a helper feed is the biggest thing.  Lining up your holes and straightening the romex before the pull lets you do longer runs at one time.

    Q2: "instead of stapling it to the bottom plate"  I like to run cable about 4" up from the bottom plate.  So you stay away from 16d's going through the plate 2" into the studs.  And yet not up to the first sheetrock screw/nail 8-12" up.

    Q3: If you go into the distribution panel ("breaker box"), label your romex with a laundry marker.  In fixtures and in J-boxes, leave more than the minimum 6 inches.  Pros eventually figure out that 9" is easier to work with than 6".  Z-fold the conductors instead of just stuffing them in.  Push the receptacle in directly rather than letting the screws suck it in and strip the screws.  Etc.  Just follow good practices, the things that are beyond the code and look competent and professional to the inspector, electrican, etc.

    David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska

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