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Anyone recommend particular hard wood finish brand / types?
This is in a new construction space, so no worries about smell are minimized. I was pretty sure I was going to go with 3 coats oil (high traffic area). I know to avoid water-based. But someone I spoke with told me to use something called commercial-grade water-borne poly? He said 2 sealer coats, 2 finish is what is needed. Something like “Blackshoe” brand??
Anyone know these details, or recommend something else? This will be over 3/4″ hardwood (probably quarter sawn oak), in extremely high traffic area, but I wasn’t thinking of the gymnasium grade stuff.
Thanks
Replies
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I'm partial to Waterlox. Should be mentions of it in the archives.
*On my last house I used Glitsa after seeing it survive in my neighbor's house despite all of their children's hot wheels and other toys being ground into it. I was very pleased with its appearance and durability in my house. Multiple dogs left nary a scratch. The smell was horrendous (we had to move out), it was expensive and only selected installers are certified to apply it. When I put new floors in my current house I will use it again.
*Ah...I just remembered the third option is called "moisture cured" poly not "water-borne." Anyone know the difference or recommend oil vs. moisture-cured?
*Either the (reformulated) Duraseal or Last 'N Last oil-modified polyurethanes seem to do just fine.Waterlox is wonderful but you have to be more careful in your approach (to reduce dust) and it may take more coats.Glitsa smells bad enough to smoke the Taliban out of their caves.Jeff
*Have you heard of Fabulon?
*Bill:Try your query at the following link. The board deals in floor finishing only and I've learned alot from the many discussions. There's far more to consider in what brand to use, but the conditions in which it is applied. http://www.floormasters.com/wwwboard/wwwboard.html
*Harco Moisture Cure is the hardest, or generic brand. Harder than Glitsa. Always used in commercial.GW
*Bill,I'm no chemist, but I think most oil based polyurethanes are moisture cured which simply means that they cure by reacting with the moisture in the air. Thismeans that to some degree that drying times can be affected by very high or very low humidity, but I've never had problems. Then again, I'm not usually in a hurry. Waterbourne polys are polyurethane suspended in water. Both are fine products, but most waterbournes are a little too clear for me. There's something about the way the oil in the oil based finishes "pops" the grain that waterbourne's don't do, at least not for me. If I were using quartersawn oak, making that beautiful grain stand out would be important to me. Jeff's right, the Glitsa really REALLY smells bad, but would still be my first choice.
*Oil based polyurethanes are paint thinner type solvents. Moisture cured polyurethanes are laquor thinner type solvents. The stronger the solvent base, the harder the finish. Glitsa also is a laquor base, with alcohol. But hands down, the MC polys are the most resistant to scratching and wearing. GW
*Bill, I just had a new fir floor installed on a home I am buildinbg and we used Glitsa. Dries harder faster,fumes are terrible but the finishes is beautiful.Now having said this I also had the same flooring guy's refinish my own oak floors at the same time and I had them use Dura-seal. Didn't have to move out I believe it is a great product It takes 30 days or so for it to get completely cured.but we could walk on it the same day (carefully in stocking feet)
*Bill,I too like Waterlox very much. It's essentially tung oil with a catalytic resin additive that makes it much harder than tung oil alone. Gives a very rich amber color. Caveats about keeping the dust down while drying and the need for at least four coats. The more the better. Nice thing about it is that when it starts to wear you can just wipe on some more. No need to sand it all down again, as is often the case with poly.Steve
*Thanks for the help. I'm following up on links, etc. and most all of this information has been helpful.
*Bill,If you aren't set on a high gloss finish, I'd suggest Penofin interior oil finish. They offer a variety of color coices. It's an oiled finish, similar to Watco.http://www.penofin.com/interiortip.htmUsed it on new and sanded original oak floors in our remodel and it's still holding up great after two years of teenages and a dog.
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Anyone recommend particular hard wood finish brand / types?
This is in a new construction space, so no worries about smell are minimized. I was pretty sure I was going to go with 3 coats oil (high traffic area). I know to avoid water-based. But someone I spoke with told me to use something called commercial-grade water-borne poly? He said 2 sealer coats, 2 finish is what is needed. Something like "Blackshoe" brand??
Anyone know these details, or recommend something else? This will be over 3/4" hardwood (probably quarter sawn oak), in extremely high traffic area, but I wasn't thinking of the gymnasium grade stuff.
Thanks