FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Quirky roof addition (lower the pitch)

bcskijor | Posted in Construction Techniques on August 2, 2006 08:01am

HI folks,
I don’t know if I would call this “fine” homebuilding but I am trying to do top quality work.
So I am building a 10×24 addtion on one side of a 16×24 cabin/house in Alaska. Owner built. the current roof is about 4.5/12 pitch with rough cut 2×10’s. I am adding a second story to a 10×10 section of the addition for a bedroom. Becasue the existing wall of the upstairs is about 6 feet, in order to make the addition tall enough we need to raise the roof (i.e. lower the pitch). I have plans, in which the engineer calls for a 2/12 pitch with 11 7/8 I’joists.
So the part I don’t quite understand is where these rafters meet up with the old roof at the peak. The plans call for an extremely low angle cut (about 4 ft long) in the web stiffened I-joists. these are then supposed to sit on what he calls bed rafters laying perpindicular to the existing rafters. The bed rafters are 2×12 and lay flat at the top middle and bottom of the cut where it meetes the existing rafters.

Has anyone done anything like this or even heard of bed rafters.
Also what’s the best way to attach these rafters? Toe nail? some kind of simpson bracket?

thanks for any help!!
Brian

Reply

Replies

  1. User avater
    dieselpig | Aug 02, 2006 10:32pm | #1

    If I'm following you correctly, we cut that style of roof rather frequently.  It usually occurs on an addition where a shallow pitch roof runs parallel with the main, steeper pitched roof.  It's just a parallel layover roof.  We call your 'bed rafter' a cleat, nailer, or ledger.

    But I've never done it with I-joists.  First off, ask your architect how he thinks it should be fastened together.  But if you're asking me, I would cut solid web fillers out of 2x stock and nail them onto the I-joists for the length of the tie-in cut.  Then toe nail the assembly to the cleat (bed rafter) and then find whatever piece of Simpson hardware I can find that fits best and nail that on too.

    View Image
    1. Stilletto | Aug 02, 2006 10:37pm | #2

      Tim Uhler is or was doing an entire roof out of I-joists he was talking about it recently.   I think he posted some pictures here.   The pictures showed the web stiffeners at the birdsmouth and some Simpson hardware I believe.What's wrong with me?  I could ask you the exact same thing.

  2. Framer | Aug 04, 2006 04:37pm | #3

    Brian,

    If they meet at the existing ridge, ask the Architect if you can cut out the sheathing from the existing ridge and down far enough so that you can nail the rafters into the ridge using the proper installation for the I-joists.

    I do this all the time when the new rafters hit the ridge, but when the new rafters don't and they're down from the ridge we do as you described with that loooooong cut on top of 2x's lying flat.

    It seems like way to much work involved if they're hitting the ridge using I-joists with all the extra work and materials you will have to put into them.

    I'm sure it's cheaper if you have to do that using microlams and just make those long cuts and your done.

    Ask him if you can use microlams every 12" o.c. or even 2x12's 12" o.c. or double every other one or something other than I-joists if you can't nail to the ridge.

    Joe Carola



    Edited 8/4/2006 9:53 am ET by Framer

    1. bcskijor | Aug 07, 2006 08:51pm | #4

      DONE!!

      I called the engineer and he was open to me doing whatever I wanted.  I just stuck to his plans and did the loooong cut on the I-joist with 3/4 plywood web stiffeners on each side.  I used 2 L-90 hangers on them and toe nailed them.  It turned out fine.  I wish I had read "Framer's" response earlier.  I would have placed the I-joists right against the existing rafters and tied them in to the ridge.  Fortunately there were only six rafters!  Thanks for the great comments.

      Brian

       

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Kimberley Robles, Decorative Concrete

In this interview, Kimberley talks about the importance of proper training, current concrete trends in the Bay Area, and the history of racist housing policy in San Francisco.

Featured Video

How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post Corners

Use these tips to keep cables tight and straight for a professional-looking deck-railing job.

Related Stories

  • Podcast 551: Power Tool Batteries, Building as a Third Career, and High DIY
  • Podcast 551: Members-only Aftershow—Badly-Built Homes
  • Podcast 550: PRO TALK With Carpentry Program Instructor Sandy Thistle and Graduate David Abreu
  • Podcast 549: Energy Upgrades, Chimney Inspections, and Questions About a Home You Might Buy

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • 2022 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Pretty Good House
    Buy Now
  • 2023 Tool Guide
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 314 - April/May 2023
    • 7 Options for Countertops
    • Tool Test: Wood-Boring Bits
    • Critical Details for Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 313 - Feb/March 2023
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
    • Fine Homebuilding Issue #313 Online Highlights
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
  • Issue 312 - Dec 2022/Jan 2023
    • Tool Test: Cordless Tablesaws
    • Gray-Water System for a Sustainable Home
    • Insulate a Cape Roof to Avoid Ice Dams
  • Issue 311 - November 2022
    • 7 Steps to a Perfect Exterior Paint Job
    • Options for Smarter Home-Energy Tracking
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: James Metoyer
  • Issue 310 - October 2022
    • Choosing a Tile-Leveling System
    • Choosing Between HRVs and ERVs
    • Custom Built-in Cabinets Made Easy

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2023 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in