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Just ran across the following articles, I will have to say that the graph shown in the first article below has caused me to temper my enthusiasm a bit for steel stud construction in exterior walls. Anyone have any additional information, particularly on where one might get the type of steel studs mentioned in the last article? (And, no, I haven’t yet checked with http://www.steelframingalliance.com/ )
An interesting comparison of R-values for an entire wall system using wood-framed, steel-framed, ISP, and ICF construction techniques is at:
What’s in a Wall
http://oikos.com/esb/34/wall-R.html
Some other intesting articles relating to steel framing are:
ASHRAE Sets Thermal Correction Factors for Metal Framing
http://oikos.com/esb/36/Corrfact.html
Foam Sheathing Essential for Steel-Framed Walls
http://oikos.com/esb/38/steelstudy.html
New Steel Stud Design
http://oikos.com/esb/46/steelstud.html
(I posted this info in response to a query over in “Tools for Homebuilding”. Since discussing steel stud walls didn’t exactly seem in keeping with the “tools” area, I thought I would post it over here for your edification.)
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Casey,
I didn't follow your links, but have dealt with ASHRAE 90.1 building envelope calculations for some time. It is astonishing what steel studs do to degrade the wall's overall R-value. Batts between the studs are sort of a waste of time and good money. Our commercial buildings are thermally heavy, so this isn't a serious problem in our area of the country.
For houses, I would consider 2 alternatives if you're interested in using steel studs. First, use a wall system with continuous rigid EPS insulation inside or outside of the stud line. Second, go hybrid with wood studs for the shell and metal for interior partitions.
If you haven't used cold rolled steel framing yet, make sure you learn lots about it first. For example, shear loads near joints are a special weakness when compared with typical wood construction. Another example: most studs are lightly galvanized (G60 classification); you should order G90s for projects near the ocean. Last example: forget manufacturer tables that allow 25 gauge for most non-load bearing walls; 20 and heavier will give you a straighter wall.
Regards,
Dave