Hi guys, been along time, I need your help asap. I have two craftsman radial arm saws, the older has some how gotten outa wack. What I need is the cailibration sequence from first step to the last, this mounted in my 20′ bench. Model number is 113.19770 Serial or date code 8054-mo173 if any of you bord benders can help I sure do appreciate it. The Mrs. just handed me supper so I’ll be here for a bit, just asked for a snack and got served yesterdays left overs, I think i’m still full from that. Hey thanks to all .
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I had one of those. Finaly sold it at a yard sale. It was set where it wanted to be and that was it.
Riverfest 2005. Be there, or be square.
http://www.hay98.com/
well that's not what I wanted to hear. I know as with my digital readout there is a step by step process. Any other takers, otherwise it's back to single station for a while. Thanks anyhow.
ok...you have the coloumn locks that are allen type on the collar..then ya have the head traveler bearings under the arm, then ya have the motor position swivel..for heeeling.
What did ya mess with? Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" out of kindness, i suppose"
Towns, the original.
Thank you, Jr. was finishing his High School project. I appears that my stack dado shims have become warpped. (son when you set this up do not allow these shims to fall into the threads on the shaft; OK DAD) What's strange is that when jr. moved the head it is no longer square with the fence therefore the need for recalibrating, although the bigger problem lyes in the dado set. Any info on the order of adjustment would be most appreciated, I am very familiar with the components of these tools just don't know the order to adjust from start to end.
Get a framing sq. and lay it on the table beside the blade trough.
Pull the lever in front or side of the moter to "free"....when a blade tooth rides evenly along tje traverse cinch the lever back to "lock"
That is heeling, the blade MUST be traveling in a planer aspect to the fence.
If he ( right) added a wobble dado or a shim stack dado..and it kicked or bound up and stalled,,,,you better start with the column and square. There is where the wood meets the steel.
I could set it up in a heck of a lot less time than it takes to spell it out. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" out of kindness, i suppose"
Towns, the original.
Cool got it . Thank you. Would know what the four allen heads behind the handle and handle protractor do in relation to the locking nut and cam washer on the back of the motor head.
Don't go there..unless ya have to retrace a step..they are golden from the start. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" out of kindness, i suppose"
Towns, the original.
The pin above the protractor no longer sits in it's hole , or better put when dropped into the hole and locked the head is now out of square, basically I now have to hold the pin up and square the head and lock it in place this way. and the pin is up.
That is a factory detent..ignore it. Make sure the fence is tite and the head is sq. to the traverse.
You can override the detent and adjust the aspect of the head BUT it will seeek out that factory detent unless you can hold the head still while you cinch up the bolts..not an easy task.
BTW, you can only gain a 1/2 of a degree on that detent setting, without MAJOR time. And a digital Read out. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" out of kindness, i suppose"
Towns, the original.
Sounds like it's time for the dial indicator, squares and clamps. This tool used to be within less than 128th. over it's travel. Soon it will be again. Hey I really thank you for your help.
A very good saw..I had one. BTDT with the set up.
Archchiac in it 's design, but a very versatile tool.
She don't like sudden jolts..or an over feed situ. Try a cut where ya pull the head out and PUSH back into the stock being cut..like a mitersaw does..
Be right carefull loading the table for a cut, with the head outfront..shirt sleeves..etc. You will find more accuracy that way. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I kidnapped the runaway bride..her eyse weren't like that in the before pics.
Oh cristo!
IGNORE the SCALE from the factory...it is adjustable for your convienience...USE a TRUSTED frameing Sq. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" out of kindness, i suppose"
Towns, the original.
Go to the Sears website - sears.com
Use the drop down menu at the top to select TOOLS
Type in radial arm saw in adjacent box
Press GO
Click on the Radial arm saw when the page comes up
Scroll down to OPERATOR'S MANUAL
Download PDF file, approximately 86 pages.
Scroll down to the set up procedures (look up the page # in the table of contents)
Follow the directions - The directions will work for the older saws as well as the new.
Post your results.
wish i'da thunk that..LOL Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I kidnapped the runaway bride..her eyse weren't like that in the before pics.
I will go over this real quick in the order that they have it in the manual1. Level support brackets (for the table) so that is equal distance from the motor shaft (in vertial postion)2. Adjust collumn for no play.3. Square cross cut. With square short arm againts fence pick one tooth on blade and it should be parallel to long arm as you move the head back and forth. Set screw on back of arm to adjust.4. Square gbalde to table - Put square on table with arm vertical againts blade Remove bevel scale and the 4 cap screws behind it can be loosed to adjust.5. Blade Heel adj. Place long leg of sq against fence and tip it so the that short blade is about 30-45 degrees from table and crossing the blade. Remove cover from left carriage (by the swivel lock) and loose the 2 hex bolts to adjust the heel.6 Vertical heel adj. Rotate the motor so that it is vertical (bald parallel to the table). To adjust it loosen the lock nut on the cam that is on the oposite side from the bevel scale & lock.
If they don't have the manual at sears try this one.http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Publications.asp?ID=222#Radial%20Arm%20SawsThe 199200 model looks very much like mine.Here are a couple of others that might be of interest.'http://www.newwoodworker.com/squarerastble.html
http://www.songofthegreatlakes.com/rasaw.htm
Voola or however thats spelt. The operaton was a succes and except for needing a new stack dado (it's warped) everything went quite well with all your help and suggestions. Reminds me of the time when I was about 8 years old and Dad came home work I had taken an old wood sash window apart to find out what that rope was attached to and what went thud when I couldn't get that window open and finnally did. Yep that started this love of woodworking he said " you got it apart you better get it back together"
Ya just can't put aprice tag on experience
Try this..........Viola...add an accent or accant as needed. It has a reft occurance like "eureka" ..
just don't misspell ukelele in the mixed metaphors .. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I kidnapped the runaway bride..her eyse weren't like that in the before pics.
I have a 19760 which is probably very similar.
Is it possible you have the manual that reveals secret order.