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My floor in my 18×28 shop moves about 1/2″ at the seams from summer to winter, if this had pex tubing in it, wouldn’t be sheared at the seam? Would it have to be continously heated to prevent that? Would foam insulation underneath prevent that? Range of temp from summer to winter: 95 to 30 below.
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RJT I was told to put some type of pipe at least 1ft on either side of the joint so the pex would not get crushed . If you had heat in the floor I think you would want to keep it on through the heating season as it takes some time to heat up . Not shure but I would think that the movement is from a moisture problem below the slab . I think if you heated the shop inthe winter ,kept it at 40 or better the concrete would not heave from the moisture below frezzing.
*Thanks Don. The question was for a friend that had the pex laid in the slab this fall but hasn't yet hooked up the heat, not until next winter. But his plan is to use wood boiler, which I don't think is going to work as it won't be on continuously. And his floor is about double of mine, with 2" foam underneath. He did not have pipe on either side of the joint. I am almost sure that he is going to have problems.
*He might be OK with the foam under the slab to keep the soil from freezing. He could put in a backup heat source to keep the shop just above freezing.He may be ok with the pex as it will take some abuse.
*As for my heaving floor, it's a water problem: rain coming off the roof going under the floor at the point where the slab goes over the block at the drive-in. No apron. I guess that needs some work this summer.
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My floor in my 18x28 shop moves about 1/2" at the seams from summer to winter, if this had pex tubing in it, wouldn't be sheared at the seam? Would it have to be continously heated to prevent that? Would foam insulation underneath prevent that? Range of temp from summer to winter: 95 to 30 below.