Please no discussion about black diamonds, cubits, hostile corporate takeovers etc.
I am considering 19.2 o.c. spacing for less thermal bridging. 24 is too far for the floor and roof joists structurally. 19.2 works well for all components structurally. I intend to use a single top plate and line everything up. 2×6 walls, 2×10 rafters, 9-1/2″ TJI 230 floor joists. I like less pieces, energy savings and more room to work between joists for running utilities. What other subtle things may come up? My only experience is 16″ o.c.
For example, OSB on the walls will need to be run horizontally which is weak axis (right?). I hang the sheets off the bottom to grab the foundation sill plate, so I’ll be filling in the top part later anyway. I can anticipate an odd cut to stagger the 3 levels of wall sheathing. Should I anticipate any unusual requirements with regards to the sheetrock? Usually an offcut is required for interior framing anyway; the room layout will have more to do with waste than the spacing of framing. The roof deck and floor deck are rated to 24″ and will be plenty stiff for the loads imposed. What am I missing?
Replies
How will you insulate. I've never seen batts that fit 19".
I built my floor system on 19.2" centers and encountered no problems.
If you want wr sheetrock in bathrooms you will need to strap the ceiling with 1x. I believe 12" are required for ceilings hung with green rock.
"Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd."
~ Voltaire
Corbond high density spray insulation.
Thanks for the bathroom tip.
Hasbeen said everything I can think of in his post #2. You must have already decided on insulating with something other than FG batts.
Sounds like an OK plan to me. I'd like to hear feedback when you're done. Will you go 19.2 for all interior walls? Might as well, keep the same thought process going, less confusion.
You already know that 19.2 is a five-bay-into-eight-feet scheme, and useful to reduce framing members when using 4x8 sheathing or subfloor panels.
If you are anal about your drywall work, you don't want the butt joints on a stud, anyway. They are joined between, and a butthanger (or equivalent) is used. No seam humps.
Good tip with the drywall, thanks. Is 1/2" fine at 19.2" spacing for ceilings? My intention is to screw everything, and also use adhesive on the ceiling and rafters. Have you used a similar product for inside corners? I would rather put one doubled 2x4 in the corner to pick up exterior trim without thermal bridging, and have the next studs back 12" or so for the ends of the clapboards. This would leave 6" or so of cantilevered drywall to the corners. It seems to me that it is better to float the drywall a bit to allow differential movement of the wood/drywall at the corner but I could be all wet.
The Simpson DS drywall corner clip is what I recommend. Works just fine, but you need at least one stud in the corner for using it.View Image
We prefer to lath ceilings with framing at more than 16 centers with RC channel, available from most all full service yards. Our sheetrocker installs it in nothing flat.
Cabinet hanging can be a pain, the installer has to be in "commercial mode" or blocking (continuous) provided.
Most cabs are on 2" increments and hanging an 18" 'Solitary' end, is about as bad as a 12" or 9'' solitary just attached by the face frame to the run cabs.
I've done a lot of steel stud installs where there was no blocking ( strip mall type , often changing teneants) and one particular Beauty salon, had me buying a slew of drywall anchors.
Parolee # 40835
Agreed, I would put continous horizontal blocking for cabinets regardless of stud spacing.
Most cabs are based on three inch steps in size.I always place blocking for cabs so I hadn't thoiught of that.
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I misspoke. 9'', 12" 15"...I don't know how I typed 2"...I was thinking one thing and typing another.
I do almost everything custom nowadays, there is no point in me making stock sizes, when I /we can get them much cheaper, off the shelf, thats what filler strips are for.
I just got a 3 cab unit from Lowe's on the rack clearance sale for 74.00$ that is 54" wide for the laundry room, above the washer and dryer...I can't turn the lights on in the shop and start cutting plywood for that price, including the shirt bar that hangs in the middle. But for my house, it'll be fine, for now.
Now begs the pregnant question, if a standard "brick rule" is 4", and all around is based on that, did kitchen and bath designers subtract for finish wall? I bet so., Bec, my 54" works out to 3 at 18", which makes 6'' increments, which, makes two threes..or three two's? I am right...
I went to Boss Hog school...LOLParolee # 40835
Insulation. I generally use spray foam or blown insulation so the layout is not a factor, but I once tried to find batts for that and found I would have to special order a whole lift of bags or rolls of FG batts and pay up for it so on that job I went with 16oc
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!