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Mitch,
If you can’t grab what’s left of the screw with a pair of linesman’s pliers or vise grips and back it out, why not try drilling out what’s left or using a hacksaw blade and cutting between the two cabinets? Neither approach would damage the face frames.
Jeremy
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Mitch,
If you can't grab what's left of the screw with a pair of linesman's pliers or vise grips and back it out, why not try drilling out what's left or using a hacksaw blade and cutting between the two cabinets? Neither approach would damage the face frames.
Jeremy
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Mitch
Sounds like Jeremy has the right idea.
But I was wondering if you were using drywall screws, or were these screws that were intended for this kind of application?
Jay
*Mitch,I don't have to wonder if you were using DWS I know you were. Well hopefully thats a lesson learned the first time. There is a small diameter hole saw available for coring out your little mistake. I don't have a source for it but I bet Lee Valley or Constantines has it. You might try squeezing the frames together first with a large adjustable clamp if it's not too hard a wood and you only have a thread or so in one of the frames that might work.Next time clamp them tightly together,predrill and prebore and countersink there are many bits set up to do this in one shot and don't use DWS.sh*t happens :)Richard Max
*Good steel screws! Snapping drywall screws is something I didn't learn the hard way, thanks to this board.The coring drill doohickey I'm sure is sold by McFeely's Screws, (800) 443-7937. It will leave you with a larger hole, however. Perhaps a Q&D way to the same end is to drill down the broken end from behind while squeezing the cabinets together until the fragment collapses.
*Re: the SSV, I haven't used the veneer, but SS drills pretty much the same as laminate, but with a couple of provisos: NO hammer action of any kind, even chatter and excessive vibration can cause stress fractures, and be very careful of heat buildup- if too much heat buildsup, again, you can get stress fractures. Most manufactures recommend holesaws; you are only removing material at the rim, so less heat is generated.On the screw issue, try particle board screws (Hi-Lo, Lo-root are a couple of the names). Steel screws, self tapping and self countersinking like a deck screw. Square drive (why even think about using anything else). Threads are very aggressive so they hold solid wood together much better than regular wood screws, as there is more thread engaged and even if the wood shrinks away from the screw, there is still plenty of thread engaged.
*The "small hole saw" described in two posts above is listed in the Woodworkers Supply catalog as "screw extractor." Woodworkers Warehouse stocks them too. Make the investment and buy the set. They work well, try running them in reverse, make a starter guide by cutting through a piece of scrap... it will wander if you don't.You'll have a much easier time staying on line with the extractor (it cuts out a core of wood around the screw) than trying to drill the screw itself (your bit will want to follow the softer wood rather than the steel screw). Abandon the resulting hole and pre-drill and clamp the frames for a good screw in another location.
*The hacksaw blade should work if there is a little gap. Try pushing the cabinets together at the backs to open the gap a little. That way if any of the wood gets messed up it will be on the back of the stiles.
*"cabinet screw extraction set" $22.95, for #4 through #10 unfaithful screws.A good screw really should never break unless abused, and the clearance hole in the first piece shouldn't engage the threads. I second the motion for square drive, at least on stuff like this.
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Mitch
So what did you decide to do, and what happened?
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Has anybody ever seen hi-lo screws with trim heads? I like trim heads for screwing face frames together. Thanks - jb
*Well, guys...Prior to all the good advice, especially the mini hole saw thigamabob, I decided to run a quarter round moulding supplied by my cabinet maker in matching prefinished Maple...However I am planning on aquiring the screw extractor this week and removing the screw just for experience sake...Thanks to all who provided suggestions...While I have your attention, any remarks on light sanding of small scratches in my SSV countertops?Mitch
*Mitch , I havn't used SSV but I fabricate 1/2" Gibralter [Wilsonart ] and if you have a matte finish , the most common , we sand the top thru 60 micron then finish by hand with a Scotch brite purple pad so the owner can use the same thing for minor blemishes .If you have a matte finish you can find the Scotch Brite pad easily , if not you need to find out what your fabricator finished with and go from there . If these scratches were there when the counter was installed I'd call the fabricator and have him fix it . Chuck
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A small(!?!) problem has arisen...
Was joining to cabinets...Predrilled through face of one into another...So far so good. Upon driving screw three quarters of the way I heard that ever terrifying snap! pop!...the screw had snapped off. Now there is a minimal but maximal gap at that point between those two particular cabs...All others mounted and look great...Wondering if anyone might have a suggestion for removing this rogue screw without splitting the face frame of the boxes. My only other option is a small moulding over the seam which is not blocked by any door as it is a shelf box.
Also...Any suggestions for the safe drilling of faucet holes in SSV integral sink countertop...Does it drill like any old laminate top?
By the way...I love this friggin' message board...
Thanks for all the help.
Mitch